M.D. Creekmore’s Defensive Strategies for Home and Retreat Defense after the SHTF

Home invasion deterrent.

Home invasion deterrent.

OCOKA

OCOKA is a military term that stands for – Observation and fields of fire, Cover and Concealment, Obstacles, Key Terrain, Avenues of Approach. When setting up retreat and home defenses OCOKA should always be kept in mind and each principle addressed. Following these five key principles, you will greatly improve your security and survivability. Let’s take a quick look at each in more detail.

Observation and Fields of Fire

You need to be able to see a potential threat at the earliest opportunity, if you can see the threat early, and hopefully before that threat see’s you, then you can make the correct decisions to either make contact, hide, or prepare to defend your area with force.

Can you observe all avenues of approach from your retreat? Do you have a full 360 degrees of view around your property? Are there areas that intruders could exploit to get close and possibly steal from, loot or attack you without being seen?

If forced could you fire upon an attacker from all angles without them being able to hide from view or without you possibly accidentally, shooting your neighbors or damaging key resources? If not then you need to get to work clearing obstacles that limit your view and ability to fire upon an attacker if you’re forced to do so.

Cover and Concealment

Cover is protection from bullets and concealment is something you can hide behind where an attacker cannot see you, but concealment offers no protection from gunfire. No matter what you’ve seen in the movies, car doors, kitchen tables, typical home entry doors, or the bed mattress isn’t cover and will not reliably protect you from being struck by bullets as they pass through.

If there isn’t any natural cover at your retreat, then you’ll need to get to work now constructing something that will protect you from bullets. You could build some decorative concrete or rock walls, tall raised flower or garden beds. These could provide effective cover and still allow your home to bend in with other homes around you and not look like a fortification.

It’s also a good idea to have a supply of sand bags on hand that can be filled with sand and/or dirt to provide an effective way to put up cover quickly in needed areas. Even unused trash cans that are filled with sand or dirt can work well if you have several to work with. Just remember that the area between the cans doesn’t provide effective cover, only concealment, no matter how closely that you push them together.

Obstacles

Obstacles are meant to slow or stop an attacker or to force him to go in a different direction either away from you or into a position where he is more vulnerable to you; preferably, into an area that offers him no means of cover or concealment.

One of the simplest and effective obstacles that you can put up is a fence. Don’t wait until a disaster; get to work putting up a fence now. It will increase your security and probably, your property value. The key, to success here is to take a look around at the other houses in your area and note what types of fencing is already in use and put up a similar type around your property. The key is to blend in with everyone else; this will help you to avoid becoming a target.

Obstacles can also be used to stop vehicles from entering your property or neighborhood. For example falling several trees closely together in an interwoven pattern can be a very effective obstacle that can even stop tracked vehicles, if done correctly.

No matter how strong the obstacles that you put in place are given enough time an attacker can work through and remove that obstacle if given enough time by being unchallenged, meaning that key areas and avenues of approach should be blocked by obstacles and covered by observation – this will give you and your group early warning and time to escape or mount an offensive attack against the trespassers.

Key Terrain

Key Terrain is any piece of terrain that offers an advantage to whoever controls it. Think the high-ground. If you can take the high-ground it can drastically increase your observation, and offer an advantage it your area comes under attack. Take control of and retain that key terrain, you don’t want a potential attacker to gain control of that area and be able to use it to watch you, or worse use it to attack you or your area. One lone sniper could use the advantage given by such key terrain to wipe-out your entire family, group or community, with a few well-placed rifle shots.

Even if you’re in an urban area or the ground for miles under your feel is flat any taller than normal buildings can be viewed as key terrain, or the high-ground. Control these and use to your advantage.

Avenues of Approach

This goes hand-in-hand with observation and fields of fire – look around and note the most likely avenues of approach that an intruder or attacker would take to reach you. Watch roads, pathways, waterways and open areas that lead up to your property, key terrain as mentioned above will offer a huge advantage here. And remember the father you can see the threat the better, distance will give you more time to decide what needs to be done and how to do it, depending on the threat presented.

OKOKA: Observation and fields of fire, Cover and Concealment, Obstacles, Key Terrain, Avenues of Approach. Memorize it and use it when setting up your retreat defenses. Now let’s look at a few more key defensive strategies and points.

Staying Hidden

No doubt about it; the surest way to survive a fight is to avoid getting into one in the first place. Too many preppers have an offensive mindset when it comes to retreat defense. Sadly, many will suffer for it. Forget about the macho BS, there is no shame in hiding until a threat passes by, in fact it’s the smart thing to do.

As a family, or small survival group you cannot afford to risk injuries or worse casualties, because you let your ego driven Rambo fantasies guide you into taking offensive action when it could have been avoided it. However you should be ready to violently, defend your area and retreat if a confrontation cannot be avoided.

Combat Multipliers  

A combat multiplier is anything that makes you and your group more effective or more difficult for an attacker to defeat. You should amass as many combat multiplies as possible now, before the time of need. You don’t want to wait until the marauders are coming through the window to start thinking about it, then it will be to late – don’t put off until tomorrow what should be done today, your life depends on it.

Things like knowing your terrain, improvised alarms, holding key terrain, having long-range weapons, night vision equipment, body armor, two-way radios, semi-automatic weapons, putting in obstacles or reinforcing natural ones, camouflage, mobility, trained guard dogs etc. are all combat multipliers and should be considered in your retreat defensive plans.

Funneling the Attack

Funneling the attack in the simplest terms means using roadblocks (both natural and man-made) to “guide the attacker(s) into a place of your choosing and where you have a definitive tactical advantage.

Ambush and the Element of Surprise

An ambush can be used as both an offensive and defensive tactical maneuver, for example an ambush could be used to attack a convoy in an offensive maneuver outside of your perimeter, and also to defend against an attacker or attackers, that have entered your property or home. Hide and wait until the attackers have reached a predetermined position where they are most vulnerable, then spring the ambush.

An effective ambush doesn’t always mean shooting and killing those being ambushed, while gunfire is an option depending on the circumstances, you can also us an ambush to capture potential attackers and then make a decision on what to do with them after you’ve gained more knowledge though questioning or interrogation.

Early warning is a must

The sooner you know an intrusion is going to happen the better, time will allow you and your group to make a decision to stay and fight or make a speedy get-a-way. If you decide to stay and fight, early warning will hopefully allow you the time to get into the best possible defendable positions, or to plan an effective ambush.

Early warning for trespassers or attackers can come from a number of different options. For example; informants, lookouts placed in key locations that lead up to your retreat, dogs, motion activated lights, improved alarms, spot lights, security cameras etc.

It’s best not to rely on just one type of early warning device because it might be bypassed or could fail. For example you could have a lookout a mile or two away with a two-way radio overlooking a road or trail that leads into your location, and then improvised alarm devices a little further in, and then guard dogs on the outskirts and perimeter of your property or retreat location.

Layered Defense

You should divide your area into three layers of defense – the outer layer, intermediate layer and the inner layer. The outer layer could be the area as far as you can see out past your property line, the intermediate layer could be anywhere inside your property-line and the inner layer would be your home. With each layer providing increasing levels of security and protection.

You will have a plan of action for each layer of defense. For example your outer layer could be a watch and report area only with no action being taken against anyone that wonders inside that layer – unless, of course, you know that they are planning to attack and loot you at your location, then defensive action could be taken to prevent them from ever reaching your second or third layer of defense.

Your second layer would probably be your property line; this would preferably be marked by a chained link or barbed wire fence. Anyone crossing into this area is probably up to no good and should be dealt with aggressively; the extent of your aggression will depend on the depth and length of the disaster.

Your third layer would be inside your home and in most cases deadly force can and should be used here.

The key to an effective layered defense is for you and your group to know where each layer begins and ends and to have a predetermined plan of action for each layer when that layer has been breached, and to practice each scenario until it can be done effectively, even when you’re tired and hungry.

Misinformation

Misinformation is simply, leading anyone your group to believe something that you want them to believe that isn’t true. Let’s say for example that you know or suspect that someone or a group is listening in on your two-way-radio communications, to gain Intel before they loot or steal from you. You can use this fact to your advantage, by feeding them false information via your two-way communications or through know informants.

For example; you could make them believe that your group is larger or better armed than you are or lead them to think you’re going to be in one place but in reality you’re setting an ambush, or planning your escape. The key is to make it believable and have a workable plan where you can use their response to your false information to your tactical advantage.

False or misleading information could also be used to make your neighbors think that you are worse off than they are. For example; you could show up at their door begging for food, when in fact you have a well-stocked pantry.  Just don’t be too aggressive by demanding that they share whatever they have with you because, you might get shot if they mistake you as a threat.

Official looking signs can also be used to good effect when planting seeds of false information, for example; you could post official looking “Food and Water 5 Miles” with an arrow pointing down the road and away from your location. Use your imagination and I’m sure that you can come up with other ideas for signs that will mislead and confuse strangers that wander into your town or onto your property.

Defensive Positions

Most homes were not built to defeat gunfire and bullets will pass right through the walls and riddle anyone caught in between. It is best to defend your home from the outside where you have more visibility, and mobility. This is where your early warning devices come into play, by knowing when someone is approaching your location but before they get there, you and your group have time to get into a defensive or ambush position.

Sandbags are very useful and effective when setting up defensive poisons that offer ballistic cover. They are cheap enough (or can be improvised) that you can stock up on hundreds of bags for under $100 and can be filled with sand or dirt that you dig up from your property.

Although; you don’t want to defend your home from the inside it’s still a good idea to build up the area around and near the windows with filled sandbags. This will offer cover if for some unfortunate reason you were surprised and trapped inside the structure.

Lining the area inside your pouch up to the railing with filled sandbags is also a good idea. This will offer a protected shooting position that can be occupied quickly, if an attacker or trespasser were to get inside your second layer of defense before you have time to man your main defensive positions away from your main living structure.

Your main defensive positions should be set up in key locations around your property and can range from hardened pillbox type structures with thick reinforced concrete or rammed earth walls to simple spider holes, or a mixture of both.

Don’t look like an easy target

Don’t be an easy target, and even if you are, you can use misinformation to make would be looters or attackers think that you’re far stronger and better armed than you really are. If they think you are a hard target hopefully they will think that going up against you is not worth the risk, and move on in search of an easier target.

OPSEC – Operational Security

We here this all of the time in prepper and survivalist circles, OPSEC aka operational security and it is very important now and will be a major factor toward keeping you and your group secure after the balloon goes up. The number one rule of OPSEC is to keep your mouth shut – everything should be done on a need-to-know basis and most people don’t need to know anything about what you and your group are doing.

A Plan of Retreat

No matter how well prepared or strong our defenses, we could be faced with a superior force that greatly outnumber and outgun us, where staying and fighting would be suicidal. You need a plan of retreat, preferably, a way to retreat without being seen or confronted by the superior force. An escape tunnel from your home that leads to a hidden and safe evacuation point would be idea. But most preppers don’t have the room or the resources to put such a plan and tunnels into place.

Again; this is where early two-way-radio warning lookouts and alarms can save your life. If you know a threat is approaching you have time to evaluate the threat and make a decision of whether to stay and fight or retreat. You should have a predetermined destination where everyone in your group knows to meet up if you’re forced from your retreat area.

Also having caches of first-aid, water, food and ammo along the way and at the safe location is a good idea. Get those into place now, before the time of need. Also each member of your group should have an escape or “bug out bag” that can be quickly grabbed as the escape plan is being put into action.

I know many survivalists / preppers will resist the thought of retreating from their retreat, preferring to stay and fight even if defeat and death are certain. You know; take out as many of those SOB’s as possible before they take your location and while this is admirable, it isn’t the best decision.

The escape can be used to buy you time to get better organized and plan for a counter attack where you can ultimately, take your property back from the aggressors. I’ve talked to several preppers who have their main food caches hidden on their property, while having a separate smaller cache out in the open for looters to find if they make it that far.

But the surprise is that those preppers have poisoned their “decoy cache” of food items ( I don’t advocate doing this but it is what some preppers are doing). So they plan to retreat, wait, then come back and remove the looters / attackers after they have died of the poison.

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About M.D. Creekmore

M.D. Creekmore is the owner and editor of TheSurvivalistBlog.net. He is the author of four prepper related books and is regarded as one of the nations top survival and emergency preparedness experts. Read more about him here.

Comments

  1. I know I will never be strong enough to really defend against a determined foe, so retreat is not an option, it’s part of the plan.

    I personally prefer to not be found in the first place.

  2. Very good article. As soon as it gets warn enough to spend quality time outside and the 30 some inches of ice covered snow in the yard melts I am going to reevaluate my situation…

  3. I have the majority of my land cleared, save a few oak trees. My weak areas are the three outbuildings that i have (shop,pump house,henhouse). Butas long as i know that they are my weak areas, i can do things to make hem less hospitable to those that would use them for cover. for instance,my pump house is also where i store45 gallons of gas and all my propane. i would hate to be near that in a fire fight.

  4. Rider of Rohan says:

    It would take a pretty large number of people in a retreat to defend it in depth. My strategy has always been to get the H out of Dodge when confronted by a superior force. The key is obtaining knowledge through intelligence. Personally, I don’t believe we will ever see such a thing as a complete collapse with no gov’t entity anywhere. That doesn’t mean one shouldn’t give such a thing any thought, and prepare as best one can for it.
    My thoughts are that we have to think of defense in the terms of criminals given carte blanche to attack. I know that in Argentina a guy named Ferfal documented the attacks of roving bands of criminals that targeted homes in rural locations for kidnappings, rapes, looting and murders. It was common for these thugs to use torture and other inhumane methods to get what they wanted. The government in Argentina set back and let this happen for its own reasons. There have been numerous attacks along these same lines in So. Africa as white farmers are being viciously killed, raped and tortured as the SA Gov’t looks on. As a matter of fact, the SA Gov’t is supplying these criminals with arms in a systematic genocide of rural whites in SA. The gov’t then claims these are criminal attacks, nothing to do with ethnic cleansing. I truly believe these are the kinds of attacks we will face.
    Given these thoughts, everything MD said applies to these types of attacks, with intelligence and knowledge being the most important. Early warning devices are especially important as these types of criminals use surprise as their main tactic. It’s doubtful many of them would risk their sorry lives, but would most likely move to a softer target. Fencing, warning devices, hardened structures, and training are the best defense in these situations.
    Thank you, MD, for bringing our attention to things we would rather not think about. But, bottom line, prepping can’t be all about gardening, animal husbandry, food storage and canning. Security will be important, because your rooster crowing or goat bleating will be the dinner bell to a lot of people in hard times. And frankly speaking, they think they have the right to your stuff, because that is exactly what our gov’t has been telling them all these years, isn’t it?

  5. riverrider says:

    great job m.d.! a military instructor couldn’t have done it any better…. i’m one of those resistant to retreat. i figure if i bloody them bad enough they’ll move on. if not and they run me out, i have no hope of over running them, after all they beat me once already. w/o my preps we’re good as dead anyway, so i’m fighting it out. nobody lives forever, and dieing on my knees ain’t my style. i still need to cache some preps elsewhere tho in case of fire or in the short term, regime cartel action.

  6. Tactical G-Ma says:

    Very good MD.
    OCOKA- this is something I’ll definitely pass on.
    My first recommendation is to always avoid confrontation if possible. In stressful situations, some people are at their worst and generosity may be seen as weakness. Vary the times of day you perform activities and vary routes in and out of your compound. Predictability is death. Look for booby traps. A box, a cooler, a stalled car, anything different or out of place could be a bomb. And if traveling by car and need to run a roadblock, always aim for the back of the cars. If something is bothering you about a situation and you can’t put your finger on it, then follow your instincts.

  7. Antizombie says:

    Living in really flat wheat country I can see for 1/2 mile in any direction from my home. I have often thought this put me at a tremendous disadvantage in defense of my property. I have always worried that a really good rifle shot could set out 4-500 yards and take me out from a distance. Gilly suits would blend in easily with wheat stubble. It would be a shame if I was to go while doing the morning chores around the place. Guess there’s no sure fire defense for every location.

    • I too live in a similar place, but there ARE rises and dips in the ground, if you can be in one of the dips for your main living area and patrol and monitor the rise surrounding it- a motion detecting camera facing each direction could be useful as can such things as wild birds ‘encouraged’ to stay near those overlook positions, etc.
      If you have both high ground and ‘hidden’ valleys on your property you should be able to sit pretty as far as security goes with enough forethought and prep. (apparently never ending vistas can be very misleading with the right utilization.)

  8. Hunker-Down says:

    Two sides of our house are without windows. I have several spots in the house to point a 12 at. The neighbors are too close to have a safe field of fire in any direction. When they get in the house, it will be wall to wall combat.

    • Tactical G-Ma says:

      Dh and I have discussed using the attic to have periscopes that can be easily in or along chimneys and vents. I hate booby traps because the innocent might be harmed. I do however am prepared to use smoke bombs. Using the grenade sort like the swat teams use is very expensive. Fireworks smoke bombs are ok but they can be homemade as well with newspaper and instant cold paks. Pipe bombs will be a handy skill to have but I never learned how.
      I also believe stealth is invaluable.

      • Hunker-Down says:

        We’re working on stealth methods. We should google the smoke and pipe thingies but DHS might put us on another list. Oh well.
        Wisconsin has fierce building codes due to our winters, our attic is stuffed with fiberglass to the point we cant get in it.

        Thanks for the tips.

  9. Nebraska Woman says:

    Thanks, MD. I hadn’t thought of sand bags.
    A friend wants to cut the boughs off my beautiful coniferous trees at least 6′ up so people cannot hide there. I hate to think of my beautiful trees denuded…

    • Thomas The Tinker says:

      Nebraska… just a thought! many years ago the ‘Salts’ (short timers) in my platoon instructed me to clear the low veges in front of the wire but to leave anything taller clipped bare two feet up from the ground. Thought it was odd but being the new meat I shut up and went to work with my K-bar. We had a probe just a three nights later. Our squad ‘blookman’ (m79 grenade) spotted the feet and legs in the bush. I can only think these poor gomers thought they were invisible in the ‘tall brush’. He killed two and our mortar crew killed one. I’m not a former ‘Seal’ or Deltoid, Green Benny or Recon Ranger… just a Marine grunt. I know some of the younger vets have some better ideas.

      End of war story………

    • Trimming the conifers up isn’t all loss, Nebraska Woman, it will also improve the breeze and help prevent mosquitoes etc from breeding under there.

      Several years ago a friend had mosquitoes, and her landscaper suggested trimming the trees up. Problem solved, and she can now see her shed doors from her easy chair. Win/Win, except for the mosquitoes.

      • redneckrod says:

        Trimmed all the trees in back of my house up to about 10 feet last year. Have not regretted it one bit. Grass is growing better. Ground is drier. Plants are doing better. More breeze through the back of house. And I can actually see right out to the fence line.

  10. I would imagine concealment would be priority and retreat as a last option. Even if you managed top escape, life would be rough without your gear.

  11. Small arms penetration test on sand. Interesting results.
    http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot7.htm

    And if you plan to use the interlocking felled trees (aka abatis) like I do remember to stock pile some 60d nails (tree spikes) to drive into the felled trunks at different angles. You should also cut the heads and sink the nail below the bark with a nail punch then back fill the holes. This makes the use of saws for clearing difficult. Doesn’t stop fire though.

    • I just finished the boxoftruth link, I was like you, I thought you would need all of those boxes you built, I think I am going to buy sand bags again!, funny, when I left Fla. I thought they were in my past!

      • riverrider says:

        rj, quicker to built plywood boxes to put the sand in. build it like two parallel walls tied together and fill.

    • riverrider says:

      or just wrap them together with barbed wire. makes it difficult to use a chainsaw to cut it away…

    • The trashcan idea is great MD, but I may have a way to improve, instead of using circular trashcans, use the square ones with wheels. The crack between them is still not safe, but much smaller, everything else gives equal protection. And due to the average american laziness, your sandcan is on wheels and mobile (though I’m not sure how much weight they could take).

  12. Thomas The Tinker says:

    Thank You MD… I hadn’t given any thought to these things in months.. year or better. Our old house has 5′ long, 2.5′ high by 12″ thick cast Iron radiators at the corner windows of our house on both floors. We only keep a few boxes of heavy plastic bags for ‘sand bag’ use. We are listing the house for sale this April… but until we GOOD… we are rather limited to a Stand and Deliver defense with little in the way of routes outta here. DW and I have taken note of each and every nook and bush in our part of the hood… A night vision mono is several dollars down on our prep list. Thermal… not in the budget.. not even.

  13. GoneWithTheWind says:

    Create “natural” places on your property/landscape where an attacker would see as being a protected place to lie or hunker down while sighting in on your doors and windows. Then run wiring to each site for a decorative landscape in the ground light. Each light should be buried right where an attacker would lie to provide cover from someone shooting back from the house. Until THSTF you simply keep the lights and make sure everything is in good repair. After TSHTF you replace each underground light with a device consisting of a shotgun shell aimed at a mason jar full of gasoline with the wiring set up to fire the shell. Then in the event of an attack you throw the switch and light him up.

  14. Look up Rhodesian war. See what the farmers did. They put hardware cloth over windows , to prevent grenades from coming through, had a box on wheels filled with gravel , they could move into rooms that were taking fire, they had a commo network in place , that could bring help , fellow farmers if under attack. Make sure roofs are fire proof , as many if they cant get you out with rifle fire , will burn you out. Clear trees nearby and dead wood.

    One could get there barbed wire rural fences up now build abattis , like piles to funnel into fields of fire . Also fill sandbags now. Get pieces of furniture now , and reinforce and layer , where they could handle sand in them and place in front of windows. Work on escape tunnel now. , dig a ditch and cover with plywood and reinforce, make a trap in home .

    • “They put hardware cloth over windows , to prevent grenades from coming through”

      Good idea, Steve. I saw that done in Beirut when their civil war was getting going.

      If well fastened, it is also a good deterrent to burglars in normal times. Just be sure you don’t eliminate all avenues of escape in case you have a house fire.

      They also had a low cement block wall- a course or two- around the hose, with a wire fence on top, and a hedge inside, so people could lie on the ground and have both cover and concealment.

  15. Thanks MD. This was eye-opening info for me & makes me realize that I need to shore up my weak ideas of a plan. Best article in a while!

  16. During the early days of Desert Storm sandbags were hard to obtain but we found an almost endless source of empty 55 gallon drums. We banded them together in groups of 4, Then filled them with sand. Of course we had heavy equipment available to load and move them.
    Another tactic to consider is Defense In Depth. Using locations with excellent concealment that may provide lousy cover can still be used for a quick strike at your invader. The key is to one or two shots and then fall back to another preselected location before they can respond. Repeat over and over. Works real well with two defenders leap frogging as they fall back one at a time. Basically you give up a little real estate but make them pay dearly for it.

  17. Tom Arnold says:

    Great article with nice review of some basic but important tactics. One thing – was oBsec a typo for oPsec near the end?

  18. Curley Bull says:

    MD,

    This is a very well written article and that is from a retired 11B40H. I could not have done better.

    Due to age and body (can’t run and have to use cane to walk much), if I can’t BO in the first 3 to 5 days, I’ll have to dig in and convince the enemy that this ground just isn’t worth the price.

    I will not be alone as there are a few in this area that would probably join me at this location. Maybe even a few from Louisiana.

    Bull
    MSG, U.S. Army, Ret.

  19. Jersey Drifter says:

    I guess I have some planning, and re-evaluating to do this spring. I don’t plan to bug out. But I can sure improve my situation.

  20. riverrider says:

    if you don’t have night vision gear you can paint the house side of tree trunks, fence posts or even rocks with white paint. in all but the darkest night you can tell when somebody walks past one of the painted objects. one guy made false cover for the bad guys to get behind. looks like protection but is just hollowed out junk.

    • Rider of Rohan says:

      Riverrider, you should write an article on retreat security. I never would have thought about the white paint trick, now I’m about to go to the store and buy some white paint. Thanks.

  21. SurvivorDan says:

    Very well thought out and well written article MD. Indeed, its not all about shelter, wheat and water.
    One has to be able to keep them or failing that …… keep one’s own hide intact.

    • Good to see you back SD, been a while.

      • SurvivorDan says:

        Thanks Cavtrooper. Lots of personal angst. Been a bit preoccupied. Had to move in with the folks. Anti-preppers by the way. ;}
        My folks are aging and have been keeping me busy lately.
        I am blessed to have two parents approaching 90 years old, but they do keep me hopping sometimes. ;}
        Miss the gang here. Will try to stay up on the great articles and the Pack feedback.

        • Sometimes I get the feeling that it’s all for naught. Then I look over at my kids and know that I could never see them suffer because I didn’t just do a little more to plan for their future.
          DW always tells me funny stories of her aged grandmother who is driving her mother crazy. Grandma’s latest trick is to hide things and then blame DMIL. The way she tells it leaves me laughing all the time. Hang in there.

  22. A field expedient sandbag is dog food bags , they are made in ripstop style patterns , and one could use zip ties to close.

    Also , use thorny plants as natural barbed wire keeps them out and funnels them where you want them.

    Have fields of fire laid out and yardage figured ahead of time, could paint fence post color coded , one color for 100 , one for 200 , one for 300 etc.

    When SHTF is eminent make want to think about traps , do research its out there. Now is not the time but in the future ?????

  23. barberbill says:

    I really like the cache ideas, with prearranged meeting points. Caches in all directions of escape, with some set for a short distance for immediate use, and then others set towards a meeting point or bug out location. Unfortunately this ties up resources. This could be something as simple as buried 5 gallon buckets a few hundred feet away, or a mini storage unit with a combination lock in walking distance for urban dwellers. Also a message system for groups so if multiple people hit the same cache, they can coordinate meetings. Ex. “Bug out location 1 compromised, going to location 2. Got my weapons , skipped cache #6, gun/ammo should be there.” Radios could also be stashed but set to blank channels, so that members of the group can pull them from the caches,set them to the prearranged channel or frequency and arrange a meeting or counter attack.

  24. I like the idea of the official looking sign. 5 miles to Food and Water would possibly have them far enough to not want to turn back.

    Peace,
    Todd

  25. Ambushes are not offensive and defensive. If you are on the offense you are conducting a movement to contact, reacting to contact, raid, assault etc. Ambushes can also be set up in many different ways, one of the most popular has one placing enfilading fire down on the enemy (not gonna happen with this group). On a final note, ambushes can be categorized as near and far with the determining factor being hand grenade range. Inside hand grenade range = near, outside = far.

    One thing everyone should keep in mind, many of these military TTP’s (tactics, techniques and procedures) are set up for…the military. These take into account forces which are well trained, have constant access to resupply, medical resources and oh yea….casualties. It is understood when conducting COMBAT operations that there will be injuries and fatalities and for the injuries hopefully they can be treated with state of the art procedures and saved.

    Big difference between that and SURVIVAL, where a simply gsw could fester, get infected and cause death. Take from this article some tips but remember if you are putting on body armor and going on the offensive in a gun fight, someone will get shot and it just might be one of your group.

    • Tactical G-Ma says:

      CIB
      Very good points. And it is a stretch that medieval type activities will take place ever again. BUT there are those of us who believe our forefathers knew that when they were not able to fight, they were enslaved by tyranny. And have told us to always bear arms and prepare for the possibilty of having to fight to survive on our home ground. I believe all the food and water in the world can’t fix dead.

  26. Fist off the nice thing about this recipe it will not kill but will Stop an attacker or rioter if needed. The antidote for this recipe is Organic Milk.
    To make your own homemade pepper spray you will need the following
    ingredients/supplies:
    3 tablespoons cayenne pepper
    1 tablespoons black pepper
    2 tablespoons of rue lemon juice
    2 eyedroppers of Alcohol based Cayenne Tincture
    2 tablespoons of grapeseed or almond oil ( for fast penetration)

    1/4 cup pure lemon juice.
    4 Clean white cloth
    5 Small glass
    6 Second small glass
    7 Small spray bottle

    First you will need to put the cayenne pepper, black pepper into the small glass
    Add Rubbing Alcohol mix very well let sit overnight or longer( the longer the stronger)
    Strain with white cloth in to the second jar and give a good and final shake.
    Add the grape seed or almond oil and lemon juice and let sit for 5-10 mins
    What is in the second glass is your homemade pepper spray. It is
    Usually a dark brown or red color and doesn’t have a pleasant odor. Once you have completed this process you need to pour the liquid into an empty spray bottle. Put the cap on and then you are ready to use your pepper spray whenever you feel the need to protect yourself.
    This pepper spray works well because it is not water based. Water based
    products generally don’t work as well as the cayenne pepper breaks down in the
    water. The oil, alcohol and Lemon Juice ensure that this does not happen and also ensures
    that when the substance gets into the eyes of the attacker that it will sting bad and will also have an acidic effect.
    enough that they will be stopped in their tracks.
    It’s important to take steps to ensure that you can not spray your homemade
    pepper spray accidentally. This is a substance that needs to be used only under
    the most extreme circumstances because when it comes in contact with the
    eyes, the nose and the mouth, it is very painful and uncomfortable. Please
    understand that these effects can last for up to 45 minutes, even an hour.
    Accidentally spraying yourself or someone else would not just be inconvenient, it
    could be painful. If possible, ensure that the spray bottle that you use has a
    protective cover or cap so that it cannot be discharged unintentionally.

  27. patrulje says:

    Barbed wire, parachute cord or even ordinary wire strung below the knee will cause a running attacker to fall. Consider this along avenues of approach near your retreat. This disrupts his advance and gives you the advantage.

    The above mentioned thorny plants are great to plant in dead zones near your retreat. This should be done now (weather permitting).

    j.
    CSM (ret)

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