Emergency Power Alternatives Made Simple Part II

Battery Bank / Power Inverter (READ PART ONE HERE –EMERGENCY POWER ALTERNATIVES MADE SIMPLE Part I Solar Panels and Charge Controller)

By Robert B – http://keepingupwiththepreppers.blogspot.com/

The battery bank is the most important component of your system. Once the sun goes down, the battery bank will provide electricity throughout the night if built correctly. The trick to the battery bank lasting throughout the night is to obtain the correct ratio of solar panels to the number of your batteries in your battery bank. It’s equally crucial to have the correct number of batteries in your battery bank. Your battery bank should provide enough power storage to run your refrigerator over night until the sun returns to fully charge your batteries during the day.

Building the battery bank is the most intimidating part to most people, but it’s really not that difficult. There is plenty of information on how to build a 12 volt, 24 volt, or 48 volt system, but I will be illustrating how to build a simple 12 volt system.

Types of Batteries

There are several different types of batteries on the market that will work with your system. These batteries range in price and efficiency, so it’s best to find the right balance between your budget and your power needs.

The batteries used in any solar or wind generator must be deep cycle type batteries. Regular car batteries are not made to charge and discharge like a deep cycle marine, RV, wheel chair, or golf cart batteries. Regular car batteries are not designed for this purpose.

Lead Acid Batteries (Pictured above) – Lead Acid batteries are probably the most inexpensive but are not the most efficient. I am using five Lead Acid batteries for the battery at my home. While they do work just fine, when they start losing their efficiency, I will replace them with AGM batteries such as the batteries at my bug out location.

Vmaxtanks Vmaxslr125 AGM Deep Cycle 12v 125ah SLA rechargeable batter for use with Pv Solar Panels

Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries (Pictured above), in my experience so far, has been the most efficient. However, they do cost significantly more. While the AGM is still considered a Lead Acid battery, the construction of the battery is superior to a regular Lead Acid battery and tends to be more efficient. The Lead Acid RV batteries cost approximately $100 each while the AGM batteries cost approximately $250 per battery.

You will have to do your research and determine your budget for your batteries.

Wiring Your Battery Bank

wiring your battery bankFirst, you will need battery cables that will run from your charge controller to your battery bank. I recommend using two gauge battery cables or lower for this purpose and zero gauge cables (The largest cables available) to run from your battery bank to your power inverter,

I wired my battery bank in parallel meaning that the positive cable from the charge controller goes to the closest positive terminal on the first battery in your bank. The next cable runs from that first positive terminal to the next positive terminal on the next battery and so on.

The negative cable coming from the charge controller will run to the negative terminal on the LAST battery in your battery bank. The cables running from your battery bank to your power inverter will be connected just the opposite.

The positive cable from your battery bank will be connected to the positive terminal on the last battery in your bank and the negative cable will be connected to the negative terminal on the first battery in your battery bank (Closest to the charge controller).

The ground wiring will attach to the same negative battery terminal where the negative power inverter cable is attached. It’s best to run that cable to a grounding rod obviously outside your home.

wiring your battery bankBy wiring your battery bank together as described above, this will cause each battery in your bank to charge and discharge evenly and maximizing the efficiency and life of your battery bank.

Pictured above is my battery bank prior to adding a fifth battery and purchasing a cabinet to put them in.

If you place your battery bank inside an enclosed cabinet or container, make sure that the batteries get proper ventilation.

Note: Do not let your batteries fall below 11.9 volts as to keep them from discharging too much which could possibly damaging them.

Power Inverter:

power inverter3000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 6000W Peak 12VDC to 110VAC

When choosing your power inverter, I would recommend purchasing at least a 3000 Watt (6000 watt peak) Pure Sine Wave inverter. The pure sine wave inverters along with the MPPT charge controller will provide a much more stable current for running sensitive electronics and appliances.

Unfortunately, like the MPPT charge controller, the pure sine wave power inverters are more expensive, but again, you’ll thank yourself later.

Do your research and read reviews on all of the components. I haven’t had any trouble from the one I use at my home (pictured above).

Volt / Amp Meters and Fuses

There are all kinds of other things you can attach to your system such as meters and fuses. I have a simple volt meter attached to my battery bank to make it easier to read the voltage of the battery bank. I simply disconnect the cables from the solar panels if there is a thunderstorm coming as to not take the chance on frying my entire system.

There are plenty of different types of systems out there from all inclusive, to pieced together the way I built my system. I like my system because I can purchase the components a few at a time, and I can expand the system as needed very easily.

Plugging in your refrigerator

Once you’ve completed your system, watch your voltage either on your meter or on your charge controller if you have a meter built into the controller. During the charging phase, you will see your voltage reach upwards of 14.5 volts. This is normal and the voltage will level out around 13.5 volts during the day.

On your first attempt at this, you will be a bit nervous, so do it when your bank has a good charge coming in from the panels. I highly recommend doing this at least around noon or so after a few hours of sun.

Turn your ice maker off (ice trays work just fine) and turn the settings of your refrigerator and freezer down. I turn mine to about “two” and it still works just fine. Once the sun goes down and you’re totally running off the battery bank, limit opening and closing the freezer or refrigerator. This is where common sense comes in. During the day, with continuous power coming in, you can use it normally.

Before unplugging your refrigerator, wait for the current cycle of your fridge to complete itself so you’re not interrupting the cycle.

Next, unplug your fridge and using a low gauge extension cord (much thicker than your normal extension cords), plug your fridge into one end of the cord. I used a 25 foot cord that is professional grade. Common cheap thin extension cords are NOT good for this purpose as they do not transmit the power from your inverter as well. Spend the money on a good extension cord. Also, the closer your battery bank is to your fridge, the better.

Turn your power inverter on and check the voltage. The display on my home inverter tells me the available voltage of the battery bank, but the inverter at my bug out location displays the voltage of the battery bank and the optimal voltage to run a device.

Once your inverter is on and your voltage is up to speed, plug the extension cord into the inverter. This is where the magic happens. Even if your fridge is not currently running, you will see your voltage drop a bit. This is normal and if you have enough battery power, you’ll see it level out. Mine levels out around 12.5 volts. This will last several minutes.

When your fridge compressor comes on, you’ll see the voltage come back up. Not sure why and perhaps someone out there can explain why, but I’ve only seen this huge draw that one time after plugging the fridge into the inverter. After that, the compressor coming on barely drops the voltage at all. After that initial draw, even over night, I only see the voltage drop approximately .2 volts mean if the voltage level of the battery bank is 13.5 volts, it only drops to 13.3 or so.

In the morning, my voltage usually reads around 12.6 volts dropping only to 12.4 volts during operation.

As long as your voltage doesn’t drop below 11.9 volts, you’re good to go.


  1. JP in MT says:

    This is something we are playing with, as we do not have sufficient property to do it for the house. I have a portable system that we have taken camping, and it works well. At least it’s something.

  2. mom of three says:

    WOW, I’m impressed neat set up way to go. I’ll show this to hubby, he’s a electrical contractor so I understood your whole artical. This is something he could do on our other property. He’s worked on just about everything including setting up a ice cream truck. We’ve talked about Solar panels, it’s pretty popular in the Northwest, he wired a house and the whole house is Solar use only was a neat set up.

    • Thank you for your kind comment, Mom of three. I think your hubby could do a much better job without the trial and error I went through. My goal was to be able to run my main fridge and I’ve succeeded. I would like to augment the system with a wind generator if I can find one that has good reviews. If anyone knows of a good wind generator, please let me know. All of the ones on Amazon seem to have mediocre reviews at best.

      • Don’t buy a wind generator off amazon most are cheap plastic junk from China that don’t work. There’re a few small companies in the US making small generators that work. Wind power works on a completely different system , most small generators cannot be shut down you have to divert their power when your batteries are fully charged. I bought mine from TLG WindPower it works well as a back up to solar. Coleman air makes good equipment to operate them. They are more expensive than solar but function well as a backup at night or a cloudy period

      • The best Wind Generator concept I see so far is the SheerWind Invelox.
        The way it works seems better because it can have more wind generators (up to three), less vibration and sound, more resistance to great storms and earthquakes (if properly planed and installed with that in mind), and works with even less wind than other systems. Also seems easy to blend/ mask the wind generator.

        • Hey Joao, thank you very much. I’ll do some research on both companies. It’s a fairly large investment for sure.

          • The problem of “SheerWind Invelox” in my view is their business model, they seem to want to charge per produce watt, and that seems crazy to me. I hope that if the pepper world likes this product the people can convinced them to sell the thing at a one time payment only and not per watt produced… I certainly would not by from them with that condition. Imagine pay from produce watt in your solar panel… well I can’t imagine it either.

  3. Cooling AZ says:

    I’m going to guess that the current draw when the compressor was not running was the fridge going through a defrost cycle. Thanks for the article.

  4. Your set up looks good. A couple of thoughts for you:
    1. Many people building their own set ups include a fuse in the set up so that you don’t fry anything but the fuse if you have electrical connection issues or a power surge.
    2. If you are building your own controller set up, make sure to put a Zener (one-way) diode so your batteries do not get depleted at night if you aren’t using them. Also, if you are buying a controller, you want to make sure it comes with one.
    3. If you don’t have your system hard wired in, you may wish to mount the batteries on some sort of portable arrangement. This could be a cart, or inside a plastic crate strapped to a moving dolly. I’ve seen some great portable solar set ups built this way, where you merely pull off the solar panels, unroll the cords, and plug them into the controller on the cart.

    This portable arrangement allows you to move your batteries easily and close to where you need to use them, which shortens any needed extension cord.

    Regarding your comment on the voltage going down when the fridge compressor kicks in, virtually any electrical motor has a higher initial draw when it comes on (look up “starting load”). If you are going to have electrical issues that is probably when it will occur…blown fuses, power failures, inverter failures, etc.

Before commenting, please read my Comments Policy - thanks!