Electromagnetic Pulse Protection - Non-Fiction Writing Contest Submission by OhioPrepper
This article will address a much misunderstood subject, the effects of EMP (Electromagnetic Pulse) and some practical countermeasures against the damaging effects it can cause. When a nuclear weapon is detonated in the atmosphere, gamma radiation travels in all directions (spherically) and ionizes the air molecules around it, stripping the electrons in a cascade effect.
The interaction of these electrons with the earth’s magnetic field then generates EMP, which is actually three components. We will not go into the physics here, bit a search of EMP and Compton Effect will bring you all of the heavy-duty reading you can handle.
I am a degree electronic engineer with nearly 40 years in practice, and worked as a volunteer amateur radio operator in the MARS (Military Affiliate Radio System) from the early 1980’s into the mid 1990s, a time in communications when we were migrating from vacuum tubes to solid state electronics and the military communication planners were well aware of the EMP issue, and produced quite a bit of documentation and training material on the subject.
EMP produces high voltages and currents via induction from a magnetic field across a conductor. If we think of the conductor as an antenna, then the smaller the antenna, the smaller the induced power will be.
What this means is that many small electronic items, from FRS radios, to cell phones may be untouched, because the voltages induced internally are small. Nearly any item plugged into the power from the electrical grid, will however most likely be compromised, because of the vast array of antennas (i.e., power lines) stretching across the country.
Nearly all modern electronics are hardened against induced voltages from things like static electricity and tested using both contact and air gap discharge tests with a minimum voltage in the range of 4000-8000 volts or more. Unfortunately, most devices connected to the power line will suffer damage, up to and including complete inoperability, due to the induced high voltages on the power grid, which then are presented to the outlets in your home. There is however both good and bad news here.
While your cell phone may be undamaged, the cell towers, and interconnections to the normal telephone network will most likely fail, leaving you with a rather useless communications device with perhaps a working mp3 player and camera. Keep in mind however that you may have antennas on some of your equipment that is not connected to the power grid.
A large solar electric panel has a large surface area and wiring, and makes a pretty good antenna for induced power, and I’m not sure you can really do anything to save them, other than a duplicate set stored in an EMP proof manner. In short, anything not connected to the power grid that has its own extended wiring (antenna) is vulnerable.
An analogy for this effect would be the following thought experiment. Take a collection of containers, from shot glasses, coffee cups, 5 gallon buckets, kid’s swimming pools, and the rain barrel attached to your downspout, and set them all over the yard. Lay some of them on their sides, and place some of them upside down.
Now imagine a heavy thunder shower coming over the area that lasts perhaps for only 15 seconds. Now walk amongst the containers and see how much water (i.e., damage) each received. Those that are upside down are probably dry inside, and represent equipment that was oriented with the smallest cross-section toward the oncoming storm front (e.g., EMP pulse wave). Those on their side are similar, but some of them nay contain water, based again on their orientation to the storm.
Of those that are upright, some of the smaller shot glasses may have a little water, or even be dry, but the buckets, pools, and especially the rain barrel, contain a lot of water. This is because they provide a larger surface area to collect it. The way EMP affects metal work similarly.
The larger the surface area of the antenna, and the more directly it faces the pulse wave front, the more energy is transferred and the more current gets induced. To some extent this may affect things in a seemingly random fashion, because it depends on a lot of factors that cannot be known when the event occurs.
In 1962 the United States detonated a 1.4 Megaton nuclear device in the upper atmosphere 250 miles above the earth’s surface in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, about 900 miles from Hawaii. The EMP effects damaged about 300 street lights. The lights were damaged precisely because they were part of a large antenna system which allowed large voltages and currents to be produced.
It is generally true that an EMP event will not harm most humans; the power induced by an EMP event can possibly harm someone with a pacemaker, the lead wires of which may make a good set of antennas. Even here, the location of the person and orientation to the pulse will have an (unpredictable) effect.
Mitigation: So what can we do to save at least some if our equipment if an event occurs? There are several things, a few of which will be outlined here.
Old stuff: My 30+ year old Stihl chainsaw and my 40+ year old generator both use magnetos and no electronics for the ignition. Keeping additional spark plugs, etc. is a good thing to do regardless of an EMP event, and is simply good practice. The same would also apply to older vehicles with carburetors and standard points & condenser, or maybe some of those old tube based radios. You get the point here. Use old stuff and keep critical spares on hand.
Spares: Keep EMP protected spares of equipment or repair components for newer equipment that you have decided is required equipment.
Naturally shielded Equipment: whenever possible, purchase electronics in metal enclosures and not plastic. While not perfect, the metal enclosure will provide some amount of faraday shielding to your device. All of my Yaesu radios are build this way using heavy cast aluminum for the main body, although those connected to a power supply or antenna during an event would most likely be damaged.
Natural Faraday Shield: Storing equipment in naturally shielded enclosures can provide protection to varying degrees depending on the enclosure, and can make a good place to store commonly used devices. Metal desks, filing cabinets, metal storage boxes (tool box with tight-fitting lid), or even a 30 gallon metal trash can with a tight-fitting lid, can be convenient and are a better place to store things than laying out on the countertop or table. Make sure to remove paint and rust so the lid and the container have a solid electrical connection. When possible, line the edges of the container and lid with copper or other electrical braid to act as an electrical gasket.
Faraday Shielded cage or box: A Faraday shielded container is simply one that is completely covered with, or constructed of a conductive material (e.g., metal). Any metal will do, and although commercial cages are generally constructed with copper mesh, copper is not required. The problem with constructing a single container is that everything must be stored there, and may not be easily available for everyday use.
Also, since the container cannot have any holes in it, the only way to really be sure it is always protective, is to have an airlock type door system, ensuring that one of the two doors is always closed when accessing the contents. The simplest way to provide protection is to keep things in their original boxes, and wrap the boxes like Christmas or Birthday presents with several overlapping layers of aluminum foil, being careful not to tear the foil on the corners or any sharp edges.
Storing devices in anti-static bags is not a bad idea, but is unnecessary when the device is encased in foil. Additionally, you can store these wrapped (mini Faraday cages) in your other cages (e.g., trash can, filing cabinet, etc), to provide layered protection. BTW, the copper mesh is generally used due to weight concerns and to allow external light to penetrate the cage, since having anything but a battery-powered light in the cage would represent a break of the cage integrity to the outside world.
To ground or not to ground: There seems to always be heated discussion on whether or not to ground a Faraday cage. The short answer is that it isn’t necessary and indeed may be harmful in some configurations. Assuming the cage is constructed properly, which can be tested by placing a battery-powered radio inside (the radio should stop producing sound when the cage is closed). The magnetic field gradients within the box should always cancel out to zero, regardless of whether or not the cage is grounded.
Once you get the radio to stop, add, and remove a ground and you’ll see that the radio is not affected. If the cage is physically close to earth ground, a heavy breaded ground may not hurt anything, but is not required. Connecting a lighter (single copper wire) more than a few feet, may seem like a ground connection, but in reality can act like an antenna.
While this in itself won’t hurt anything, if it is long enough and enough power is induced into it, you could see arcing, in, around, and possibly through your cage barrier. The only real danger of leaving the cage ungrounded is that if you are touching it at the moment of an EMP event, you will likely receive a nasty shock.
If a ground was required to be functional, then is would not be possible to protect aircraft from EMP. Some people confused grounding for lightning with grounding for EMP. Lightning is generated as a high voltage differential between the upper atmosphere and the ground, and the lightning strike is natures attempt to bring the differential to zero. In this case, the electrical path is to ground, and a ground rod for lightning is useful
Final (random) thoughts: Keeping things protected from an EMP event isn’t all that hard, and dealing with individual items may provide some security, that may not be provided with a single large storage container. If 50% of your mini aluminum foil wrapped packages fail, you lose half your stuff.
If your Faraday storage room fails, you may lose all of it. Keep in mind that the LED’s in flashlights are solid state devices, and although superior in almost every way to the older light bulb based lights, may be susceptible to EMP when those old light bulbs are not. Keeping additional supplies (like the diodes for the vehicle alternator) wrapped in aluminum foil and tucked in the bottom of the drawer, will give you the ability to fix the broken things if an event actually breaks them.
Another event generally lumped into the EMP discussion is that of an EMP type event due to a solar storm. The good thing here is that NASA keeps a pretty close eye on the sun and we generally get some warning on future events. If this concerns you check out: http://spaceweather.com/ for forecasts and other interesting information.
Hopefully this information will give you a starting point to think about countermeasures for an EMP event, and give you some ideas on how to secure equipment in your own situation. The effects of an EMP event are in many ways theoretical, and all we can do is the best effort based on what we do understand if the physics involved. So, get some cheap aluminum foil and look around the house and I suspect you’ll find a lot of potential hidey holes that will fit the bill.
Good luck.
















{ 20 comments }
If anyone is in doubt about the realities of EMP do a search (Please DO NOT use Google) for operation Starfish Prime.
Perhaps you can enlighten me on why I shouldn’t use Google. I’m not being snide here, just wondering.
Starfish Prime is the 1962 Hawaii event I mentioned briefly above. There are more details available in numerous places on the net, and it’s probably worth the time to find and read if you’re interested.
Excuse me for interjecting my own PERSONAL OPINIONS about Google. I don’t trust it as far as privacy issues and as far as “net neutrality.” Net neutrality is a sham and a lie, IMHO. It will not make the net more accessible, instead it will stifle conservative conversation. Google is in bed with the administration on this and “pay for play” and I am against it all.
Every keystroke you type on Google is logged indefinitely – and those keystrokes (web searches) have been used against people in court. No thank you! There is more that I find objectionable, but the privacy issues are the biggest problem I have at this time. I also refuse to knowingly click on Google ads. I believe most free blogsites are through Google. I’m not sure, but I think most are.
If I am incorrect, I’m sure there will be plenty of people here who will jump all over this post. :p HAH! Even if I’m correct, there will still be plenty here who will jump all over this post. Such is the nature of the beast.
I appreciate this post. I think this guy really knows what he’s talking about.
We recently bought an older vehicle because of EMP concerns. Our newer car has so many electronics it almost feels like it thinks for you – and it’s always going wrong, too. It needs a computer connected to it for diagnostics, and has to be serviced and mended at a specialist garage.
The other advantage of the older vehicle is that it’s so simple you can mend it yourself! Although parts are not available off the shelf, there are people machining parts and refurbishing old ones – and they’re working in old barns, not specialist engineering shops. It uses a little more fuel than modern cars, but doesn’t require as much, nor such expensive maintenance.
The only reason I haven’t got rid of the newer car? It’s a powerful performance car, which there is no market for at the moment – and it has an LPG conversion in addition to the petrol system which means that if necessary, I can drive to the north of England and back home again without refuelling. A facility I hope I’ll never have to use, but it’s there in case.
To the best of my knowledge their is nothing in a solar panel that could be affected by an EMP. Correct me if I’m wrong.
I was wondering the same thing. I don’t have solar panels but I would think the charge controller would be what would sustain damage. The panels themselves don’t have transistors or capacitors or any other electronicky sounding things that would fry. Unless the wire that connect the cells would be in danger of frying. Sheesh! Each time I think I’m getting a grasp on understand electronics that would be endangered,I find my self with even my questions than answers. MY BRAIN HURTS!!!
Actually the solar cells are diodes created by diffusing a p-type material into an n-type silicon wafer, or by diffusing an n-type material into a p-type silicon wafer. This essentially creates a large silicon diode, which is photo reactive. The p-n (essentially positive / negative) junction is how all diodes are created. Doping silicon with separate areas of opposing material give us two types of bipolar junction transistors, PNP and NPN. A silicon photovoltaic cell is in essence, a diode or half of a transistor.
If you have a cheap (as in inexpensive and expendable) silicon cell available, try placing a voltage across it and see how large a voltage you can use until the cell quits working (as in producing power). Keep in mind here that there may not be smoke, fire or sparks, just a photo cell that no longer produces a voltage in the presence of light.
Good explanation. Essentially, the entire cell is one big solid state electronic component (a massive diode).
In addition to this, the entire solar panel, all of the small wires that cross in front of the silicon, and the wires that connect the panel to the charge controller and other components, will all act as antennas and can pass induced voltages to attached components. To function effeciently, the solar panel needs to be placed in the most vulnerable position, high up with a direct view of the sky, and no shielding. In essence, it acts as an EMP welcome mat.
so if you do have solar panels you want to protect from EMP, what method would you recomend? or is it impossible? thanks
From what I’ve read you are correct. The panels themselves should be fine, but it is the inverters, charge controllers, etc that would get zapped. I’ve seen many preppers who use solar say that they keep an extra inverter or three in a faraday cage.
Actually, the EMP induces a current that can separate the conducting strips in the panels and the cells themselves are basically giant semi-conductors which could fry just as any LED or transistor could.
0h crap. I’m more confused than ever. I know EMP is inevitable, but I’m beginning to think I’ll go about my life as if it isn’t – just for my own sanity.
Obviously the pulse will do damage, but the extent of that damage has so many variables that it’s literally mind-boggling. Fire due to a pulse is now my biggest concern. I can live without my car. but having my house burn down around me is a whole new nightmare. Back to the drawing board.
I know. There is so much that could potentially happen that it’s overwhelming. It all seems pretty unpredictable, too. For example, one study I have seen indicated that most cars would be unaffected by EMP, or at most they would stall and might have issues with peripheral electronics such as the radio. Do you go by this, or do you get an old car just in case?
Then there are fire issues, or the issue of things that you thought had been protected somehow not being sufficiently shielded.
And the biggest issue of all: if an EMP strikes and causes as much devestation as is predicted, so many people will be so deeply screwed that only the most isolated, completely self-sufficient among us will stand any chance of maintaining any sense of normalcy.
I guess all we can do is continue to prepare as best we can and hope for the best.
Very good article!
Really good post.
With the number of solar flares and the amount of solar powered satellites which we have in orbit, I’m not going to worry about my little solar array here on earth. I haven’t heard of satellites being knocked out of service (yes, there were a couple, but very insignificant).
Any money spent on trying to “harden” my solar array, would be better spend on purchasing firewood, food, or bullets.
My .02
This is an extremely low-probability event, and I wonder why it’s getting such play on various survival sites.
When devices were tested, vehicles still ran fine, hand-held radios with rubber duck antennas were fine (they had to be connected to a long wire antenna to see any damage).
I can see attaching a commercial device to your home where power enters (it would protect against nearby lightning strikes as well), but it’s clear you needn’t worry about your portable radios or LED flashlights.
My gun safe has an electronic key pad, but no key override. I would bet that an EMP event would disable it. There I sit, all my precious SHTF supplies inches away from me, but inaccessible. Any ideas?
i read on another site that placing a metal coffee can over the electronic portion of the lock,may afford it some kind of protection from EMP.
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