Your must read survival blog and prepper website.
Please elaborate on you choice in the comments below…
The best handgun is one that fits your hand well, that you know how to take a part and put back together, is easy for you to reload, uses readily available ammo, its sights are easy for you to see and align, and helps you accurately put lead on target. Other than those things it really doesn’t matter much what make and model of handgun you use as long as you take good care of it and store it in a good quality safe when not wearing it so the wrong person can’t get their hands on it.
I totally agree with you, Linda!
Ditto, completely agree.
wow, awesome response!
what a loaded question! for ccw ruger ldr can’t be beat at about 350 if you shop around. combat gold standard is the glock but demand has driven up prices. the m&p is relatively cheap and only a half step back from glock. cz, taurus are fine guns for the money. kel-tec is either love em or hate em, but very inexpensive as is high point. hk,sig,colt, most of the s&w’s are fine guns but you pay WAY too much for the name. overall, as a company i think ruger offers the best quality for the price throughout their line. jmnsho.
I agree with you on Ruger, but Taurus? I’ve been told by local gun dealers about “The Judge” coming apart with factory loads. I’d stay away…
I went with Ruger. I did not join the Glock camp since I only shot one on One day and I did not warm up to them yet. Maybe some day but I doubt it.I do not go by sales volume, Van Halen was once wildly popular but I can`t stand them iether.I have shot the xd and the same thing,My dad had a taurus but he had a problem with the rear sight. They may have fixed the flaw with it,I do not know. Personally I would have picked a smith revolver or a 911 if I had the choice.
I went with the Ruger because it was small for carrying, but it blew up (the side blew out) on me the 4th round out of the barrel. It happened at the range, and, thank goodness, the instructor caught it and told me not to try to have it fixed – to send it back. For the rest of the day, I tried out everyone’s pistol that was there and settled on the Glock.
It takes a bigger purse to carry it, but my Glock has become my friend. I think that many women think they want a little gun, but they kick worse, and with a larger gun you can hold onto it better making for better control. The only problem I have had with it is that the mag release is a little hard to reach with the shooting hand.
Not knowing the length of your thumb, I’m just going to throw this suggestion out for thought.
To better work the mag release for a reload, try this (here I go trying to explain something simple by using words- oh, gosh!).
Imagine you’re shooting with both hands (assuming you’re right handed, the left is the support hand; if otherwise, reverse the procedure) and the slide locks back due to empty magazine.
Before releasing your left hand, use it to ‘guide’ the muzzle to the left, rolling the grip in your right hand until the mag release is under the thumb, then release the left hand to get another mag. (Hint: before ‘rolling’ the weapon back to firing position, hit the slide release with your thumb, too, or jack the slide for a more positive release.)
With a bit of practice, this action is exceptionally fast. Key points to think of while slow practicing this is: 1) do not let go of the gun with the shooting hand, but allow it to move within the grip; 2) as you’re setting the gun up for a reload, bring your shooting elbow to your stomach or hip, keeping the muzzle pointed UP and about eye-level (the length of your forearm). These two actions will allow you to maintain a better grasp and control of the weapon and be able to esily see what you’re doing.
(Disclaimer: being one who has a very short thumb, I had to learn the same processes to be competetive at shoots. [DRAT! I’m still not competetive, but for other reasons.] Also, I’m not an instructor, at least not with guns, so practice at your own risk. Start with an empty weapon and empty magazines- I suggest some SNAP caps (brand name) to really get the feel for mag changes.)
Have fun, thanks for the challenge to describe this technique.
First of all, I’m not picking on you on purpose, honest; however, I have to whole heartedly disagree with your magazine change technique; although it is a common one.
First, we’ll define our hands with the strong hand holding and firing the firearm, and the weak hand doing all other manipulations. If you look at the strong hand, it is only holding the firearm with the thumb and two middle fingers providing all of the support and stability. The pinky is generally worthless for this purpose, and the index finger is used to manipulate the trigger; therefore, any movement where the thumb is not holding the firearm, has weakened your grip on the firearm, and each time you regain your grip, it can be a little different than it was just moments ago.
The technique we teach, for a magazine change generally doesn’t even use the slide release. When the slide locks back, rotate the weak hand thumb to engage the magazine release, and let the magazine drop free of the firearm on its own, during which time the weak hand is retrieving one of the spare loaded magazines, and grasping it for insertion into the magazine well.
At this point you may want to slightly rotate the strong hand wrist to help align the magazine well opening for easier insertion of the new magazine. Ensure that you’ve pushed until it clicks into place solidly, and then rotate the strong had wrist back into the firing position, while grasping the slide with the weak hand. Pull the slide straight back until the weak hand slides off the back of it, at which point you rotate the weak hand arm in an arc, down and under the firearm to again grip the firearm and strong hand, in preparation to fire. With practice, you can get sub-second magazine changes with this technique without even looking, while keeping your eyes on the target. This is good, especially if the target is one that may shoot back.
It also works relatively well with odd magazine releases like those on the Ruger Mark I & II, keeping in mind that you are charging a bolt instead of a slide in these cases.
Which model Ruger, and were you using factory ammo?
Linda has the right of it. The best is the ‘best fit’. The best is the one you understand. The best is the one or ones that prompts you out to actually train with. The best is the one that you can put hits on the perp with.
I love my automatics. I have gone through FNs, Kimbers, Colts and Keltecs. My go to combat piece is a Glock. My working piece is a Ruger 101. There is my Nickels worth.
It seems like such a simple choice. But if you are talking about a SHTF handgun, the overall best price for the money has got to be a Glock.
You have to consider:
1. Cost of the weapon.
2. Cost of extra magazines.
3. Cost of accessories (holsters, lights. lasers, etc).
4. Availability of accessories (can be directly related to cost).
5. Cost of maintenance (how many people can fix your weapon)
6. Cost/availability of parts (how many were made).
I have several different handguns. There are others that I like for specific reason’s uses. But if you look at the whole package, it’s hard to beat a Glock. Magazines, due to the aftermarket, are about half of a factory magazine (which is all some pistols have available). With 37(?) parts in the frame, and a single tool the size of a pen, they are by far the easiest to maintain. Most of the frame parts are interchangable between the 40 and the 9mm (with millions sold in the US) meaning parts are readily available. “Everybody” that makes holsters, etc. makes one for the Glock (try that with a Ruger SR9, I did).
My second choice would be a Beretta 92. Again due to the tremendous amount of aftermarket (and surplus) equipment available. I have a clone of the 92 and the DW likes it better than her Glock. Currently factory 17 round mags can be had for $18 each. I picked up 2 “used” leather holsters for $20 each. Military and police gear abound and again anyone who makes holsters, makes ones for these.
Summary: Make sure you consider the complete package when looking at a handgun based upon price. But most importantly, get one the is comfortable in you hand and to shoot. If it doesn’t fit, and/or it is hard for you to shoot…you won’t practice, so it won’t do you any good.
Can’t add much here. Best for the price? Prefer best for the person that is using it.
I agree wholeheartedly! I’ve owned Rugers – not a fan due to small grips and inaccuracy issues. I’ve owned Sig 226’s, both German and American, and they were OK in the 9mm, but hard to maintain. I’ve owned Smith & Wesson, and am VERY competant with my Model 57, but 6 shots could be seen as a downside in a true gunfight. Colts are nice, but same issue with the Series 70 / 80 frames. I finally settled on a Kimber, Pro Carry II, tricked out from the factory. Plenty of firepower in the .45 ACP, and deadly accurate out of the box. The night sights, and bevel job make this my carry weapon, and go to firearm. It fits my grip, hits hard where it’s aimed, and darn near bankrupted my gun budget when I got it, but it may have been the 6 extra mags way back when I bought it?!
Also, the reason. If you want a handgun suitable for hunting as well as defense, a big bore revolver might be the best choice. If you just want one for self defense, a 9mm or .40 cal might be the best choice, as this is the most common ammo around…
For a site dedicated to budget prepping I was surprised hi point wasn’t one of the options. Not that my criticism has any weight to it – I still don’t have and probably won’t buy a handgun, so I didn’t even vote.
But I’m really warming up to my long guns, I went to an apple seed two day shoot a few weeks back, and I thought it was great.
Congrats on attending the Appleseed. Thank you for supporting the group. One can learn tons at Appleseed, especially if they’re not an ‘avid’ shooter.
As to the Hi-Point: they’re OK weapons for what they are, but are also extremely heavy and susceptible to frame breakage due to the kind of metal used. Still, if it’s what one wants, then it is the ‘best handgun for the price’.
You most likely haven’t handled a Hi-Point in a while. A friend has two of them, one about 20 years old that looks and feels like it was milled from a solid block of steel. Very functional, but very heavy. He purchased a second about a year ago and it has a polymer frame, is light weight, handles well, and is reliable. Both are chambered in 9mm, and the new one with an extra magazine was just under $200.00. It’s really not a bad option for the budget minded.
I have a Kel-Tec P11 for my concealed carry weapon and have got to say for the money it is hard to beat (I paid $259.00 for mine ) .Very lite 10+1 capacity of 9mm and I have never had a malfunction with any type of ammo (I have put several hundred rounds through it ) . I have also had good luck with Ruger &Taurus, (although for period of time Taurus had some quality control issues ).Just my 2 cents worth
Mine is a daily carry piece. I’ve probably put over 4,000 through it by now. Not the most accurate, but by darn it goes bang every time.
went with Ruger. mostly because of revolvers. they just dont wear out!
Ruger has a lot of “bang” for the buck. And Taurus, if the reviews I’m reading about their much improved quality is to be believed, may be the sweet spot for entry level guns right now. But I voted for the CZ.
What I consider to be a high end gun at mid-pack prices.
One of the commenters hit on the cost of accessories and kit, which I had not even considered. But CZ stuff is not too rare or costly. Still consider it head and shoulders above the others in the price range.
Love both of my 357’s!
I selected Ruger, and specifically I’m thinking any caliber in the P series of auto pistols. I’ve seem them priced at $300, they’re top quality, made in the USA, durable, accurate, etc. I’ve shot many of these over the years and never had any failures. There are certainly other choices but on a budget this is a top choice IMHO.
I voted S&W but more for the idea of picking up a used S&W service revolver. either a model 10 (.38spl) or a 686
Go with the magnum and shoot .38s in it if you want, or PlusP loads. You’ll never regret that move, but you could regret getting ‘just a .38′.
I agree on the .357’s versatility on ammunition; however, if you shoot 38 Special in a .357 magnum firearm, be sure you keep the chambers very clean, since there can be a small carbon ring built up just in front of the cartridge case that can keep the .357 case (which is about 0.1 inches longer) from chambering.
I’d rather the .357 but the ability to pick up a .38 for a couple of bills is what I was referring to with the mod.10. the 686 is a magnum i thought.
A stainless steel .357 magnum, to be exact…
I personally shot a lot of handguns before I bought my xd the reasons I bought it was the ease of loading the fit in my hand and the take down was fairly simple something I could do anywhere
I prefer the Glock since then the magazines and ammo are interchangeable with my JR carbine.
Best reason and reply for the ‘why get a Glock’. Good thinking.
My personal weapons choices are based heavily on the preferences of U.S. Special Forces, particularly on preferences of U.S. Navy Seals.
Until recently, the Sig Sauer P226 in 9mm has been strongly preferred by the majority of Seals. Recently, the newly available H&K Compact .45 Tactical (a 10 round .45 ACP) has been receiving positive feedback from them.
If my family’s well being is at stake, I will always opt for the .45 ACP round.
The best handgun for the money is the one you have already. Cause you should already have one.
or two. Two is one and one is none.
One in every room.
A couple of cheap guns come to mind
1st the Zastsva M88A 9mm 8+1 with a hammer block slide mounted safety, an update on the venerable TT33 Tokerev design @$$269 a good buy and any Tok 9mm mag will fit.
2nd the Pietta reproduction of the 1858 NMA Remington cap & ball black powder revolver $229 ($269 with starter accessory kit) add a cartridge conversion kit in .45lc later on and still later a cylinder in .45acp and you have three guns in one. In BP mode the terminal ballistics of a soft lead round ball is enough to founder a horse. Founder is an old term for to put down quickly say like in the case of a broken leg, or burned so badly the horse becomes a danger to those about it. A Kirst converter will run around $290 and come in .45lc and .45acp but after you buy one gate style ring converter the second cylinder is only $130. Then there is the spare black powder cylinder for $60. In the movie The Outlaw Josie Wales the actor Clint Eastwood swaps a cylinder in a few seconds, utube videos of a cylinder swap are common. Black powder can be made with a 15th century knowledge of chemistry. Percussion caps came along in the late 18th century. Modern replacements like Pyrodex or Hodgdon 777 are stable and sold in many places, while some claim black powder more accurate the replacements are better than most shooters. Forums for black powder and even the 1858 Remington will help those new to this style of shooting and black powder is an excellent primer for reloading modern ammunition.
A fair exposition advocating BP weapons, but I wonder about getting caps if TS ever HTF. Even now one needs to find a specialty shop to find them since so many BP shooters now use the ‘modern’ style rifles that require a shotshell primer rather than cap. Blackpowder weapons are even falling by the wayside at cowboy shoots, people opting for modern revolvers and filling the case with BP (FF or 3F most likely) to get the 1800’s BP smoke.
One great aspect of BP and modern cartridges is that many revolver loads today were originally BP, and can once again be shot using modern subtitutes such as Pyrodex. Calibers that are often utilized are .44, .45, and .38/357. just fill the case with BP, leave enough room for the bullet to seat, and fire away- you’ll never blow up a modern revolver using BP or its subtitutes since it creates much lower chamber pressures.
However, you’re gonna have fun cleaning that weapon at the end of the day.
Shooting BP weapons is a load of fun, to be sure. If life ever got to that point again, I’d not be concerned with being undergunned with my .44 Navy, and I have a reasonable supply of caps and nipples. But I think by the time I got that far back in history, I’d grab for the bow and arrows right after stuffing the Navy into my belt.
Percussion caps, like primers are an Achilles heel of prepping. I have been proactive in solving this. The Tap-O-Cap which punches out the body of a percussion cap from an aluminum drink can solves the first part. The compound can be had from toy caps the paper roll caps are the most economical. The plastic ring style can sometimes be used as is, depending on the size and style nipple on the weapon in question. I have had some success with reloading modern primers, but this is an advanced art and not recommended for the neophyte.
I just can’t make myself think in terms of price because so many other things are,as,or more important than that. I have several pistol but my main one is the beretta 92 because it virtually failure proof. It is the pistol our military use and the ammo and parts will be available for as long as our military continues using it. They also make a few carbines that are magazine compatable.
The Taurus PT-92 is esentially the same gun, built with the same dies and tooling, and very good quality.
You should consider that most of us in the military hate it. I understand your point about availability but its really not a great pistol especially for the price. It has some positive features (namely magazine capacity) but you would be hard pressed to find a grunt that would endorse one.
Have heard the same thing from a buddy in the Border Patrol…
Who cares …….as long as you are not caught without one .
For the PRICE and quality over my 30 + years Rugers have
always been a good quality weapon. For the Price.
And have always passed my rugers down to family or friend..
And even if we take the price out of the picture.
They are almost always a good weapon.
Parts are available and great customer service.
And I like the fact they still make a nice revolvers.
I still like the simplicity of revolvers.
Like my little LC9 is a good boot gun, back up
to regally ccw.
I’m in the “Other” category. All points made above are really good, but I’ve got to go with the one I tell anyone who asks me: “The gun you have is the best one!”
That said, since the question was “best handgun for the price”, I have to go with military surplus. Everything listed in the choices was good – I own more than few from many of those makers. But when it comes down to price only, milsurp usually comes in pretty competetive until you get into the collectables. It’s hard to argue with a an actual field tested and issued firearm (nobody bring up WWII Japanese pistols!) that has actually been there and done that under battlefield conditions. They don’t make great CCW as a rule, true, but bang for buck they can be really hard to beat.
Tokarev 7.62×25 ,Colt 1911 , or Walther P-38 . Very field tested .
Sig 2022 in .40. Why, because it works the best for me. My advice would be to rent some handguns at a range or ask family and close friends for advice and go with them to the range to see what feels and shoots best for you.
I will second the Ruger LC9 as a good backup or hot summer day carry gun. It’s easily concealable, economical, and shoots great.
The Glock 19 and Beretta M9 are great guns for all the reasons given above. Just practice, practice, learn to disassemble,clean and reassemble your gun in your sleep, and practice some more.
Also if this is your only gun, make sure ammo is available. We have everything back in limited stock in my area except .22lr, 9mm, and .40cal.
for me defiantly not a glock or any handguns that use a polymer mag the other day I was talking to a leo and he said he was changing to steel mags for his duty carry because while combat reloading during training where they are dropping their mags on the ground two of his mags broke. the little tang that keeps the rounds in the mag just snapped off. as for me any wheel gun, no jamming, easy to clean and if you get a misfire you just pull the trigger again.
my personal choices are Smith & Wesson (SW40VE), EAA Witness Polymer (9mm or .40s&w), Ruger SR40, Hi-Point JHP (.45acp), & Glock G23 (.40s&w). but basically the best guns are the ones that work consistently (personal choice). buy the firearms that are best for you & train faithfully!
For me and my family its the hi-point 9mm…for the price of one glock or sig or XD I can buy 4 hi-points. they are accurate and dependable. go “bang” every time with any ammo. and lifetime transferable warranty. so when 1 is none and 2 is one…ill take 4x hi-point over any “one” of the name brand guns.
Although I don’t currently own one, I have friends who have a limited budget, and have had excellent results with Hi Point.
I agree. I had a few years ago that just wouldn’t quit. But, a buddy had one that I swear would have floated if you tried to use it as anchor, it was that bad. That said, the newer ones I hear are pretty reliable. Add to that the same mags for the 9mm or 40 carbine, and that’s a great combo.
My Answer: The one that is in my hand when I need it.
Having handled hundreds of different handguns in the past 20+ years, and sticking strictly to the actual question, “What is the best handgun for the price?” and staying with the listed brands (not counting other), I would have to go with a Taurus revolver. Solid guns at good prices. My second choice would probably be Ruger, with the quality of the other brands and just a little less costly. I don’t currently own a Taurus but do own several Rugers.
This is another ‘which caliber is…?’ type of questions, so I’m going to throw in my two-bits (.02 post-inflation).
Though I like my semi autos and shoot them fairly well, and really like the reliability of ‘few moving parts’ and the stryker-type firing mechanism, and their cost is really commendable regardless which brand one looks at, they aren’t my ‘go-to’ weapon of choice.
For that, I’m sticking with my stainless Ruger Police Six in .357 caliber. Though a hefty chunk of iron- it is that: stainless steel, and will IMO outlast my polymer weapons despite its having a 30 year head start on wearing out. Some peope like comparing Taurus revolvers to Ruger- I have as well. I’ve shot both side by side, inspected the innards and compared the workmanship, and Ruger wins by a landslide. Any part on a Ruger is twice as big and stronger than anything Taurus could ever make and never will.
A semi-auto of Colt’s (JMB) design will be a great back up gun to keep buried since it’d never be needed if one had a Ruger on their hip.
Of course, the question didn’t have a ‘combat’ slant, rather just asked about price. For the cost, the Ruger revolver is the overall best choice, even if one went with a Vaquero single action/cowboy style handgun. Had there been a combat orientation to the question, my answer would still slant to the Ruger Six (Security or Police), with a 4″ barrel .357 and a few speedloaders attached to the belt. But then, I’m not going into harm’s corridor daily. If I were, I’d probably go with the Colt style in 9mm or .45 since that’s what the current crop of SpecOps are heading for. But it’s difficult to get arund that those same SpecOps men are still using S&W and Ruger .357’s on occasion.
A Taurus pt92 , is basically a Baretta , they bought the Baretta factory in SA , and started producing the pistols with their name on it .
I’ve got a couple of hi points for same price i paid for my s&w 9ve, they all go bang when i pull the trigger, just remember that hand gun should be used so you can get to your shotgun or long gun when it all goes down ,not as a primary weapon.
my choice is a sig. try one for yourself and you will agree with me unless you have small hands. sigs are pricey but they will hold their weight., easy to maintain and work well.
I have an XD40. Great weapon! I back it up with a Ruger GP100 (.357.)
My choice is a Glock 21 .45ACP.
Reliable , low maintenance , low purchase cost and low cost magazines.
Include plenty of practice and familiarisation until handling becomes automatic and safe. Standardise on one load and stock up.
I agree with the practice, you can never have too much.
As for, “Standardise on one load and stock up.”, I would disagree a little. If you’re going to have a practival defensive load and practice a lot, you probably need to have at least two loads; one for practice and one for defense. I carry Hornady Critical Defense, and at about $1 per round, would not allow much practice.
As long as you have one .a Sig in 45acp is my carry .there again , have a weapon you can rely on @ any given time.Semper Fi my friends
The best hand gun by far is one that will put rounds on target, if it dosen’t shoot it’s just a paper weight.
I beleive the Bersa thunder 380, loaded with corban rounds is the best you can get for the money. purchased at 350.00, it has served me well for years, and has not given me an ounce of trouble. I highly recommend it as a home defense weapon.
That’s one of my carry guns, loaded with Hornady Critical Defense, and weighing in @ 23 oz, fully loaded.
I don’t want to come across as rude but alot of guns mentioned here are garbage and unless I had no choice would never buy one. When my life is on the line i want to know what ever gun I’m holding is gonna do its job. Cheap guns like hi point, kel tec, Taurus, and even some of the bigger name pistols are cheap for a reason. Do you really want to second guess your firearm when your about to pull the trigger? I know what your thinking my gun is fine i shoot it all the time and it works! It’s like anything else you get what you pay for. Of course there is always value to be found some things over priced others are correctly priced I’m just saying some of these brands are not in the same class as others. It’s like trying to race a NASCAR with a jetta. Until you’ve shoot some higher end firearms you won’t know what your missing.
Tell us what you really think. I’m assuming that you’ve fire thousands of rounds through all of the “cheap” pistols” and have personal evidence that they are sub standard. I have friends who have fired more than 10,000 rounds through Taurus and KelTec without any incidents. The Hi-Point and KelTec pistol caliber carbines, are considered top rated firearms. Keep in mind that like other certain body parts, we all have opinions, some perhaps better than others.
I don’t know anyone who considers hi point or keltec top rated firearms. If you want to trust your life to them then more power to you. Let me ask you this though how many police officers do you know that carry them? I’ve never met any but I’m sure there are a few. How many military groups carry them? Have you ever been to a idpa or ipsc competition? If you have how many people did you see competing with any of those guns and how did they fair in that competition. I have not fired thousands of rounds threw all of these guns but i have fired most of them a fair bit. I’ve also talked to enough people who own them and read enough reviews to know they are most certainly not highly rated. Like I said before within reason you get what you pay for. No one is cranking out top of the line vehicles, homes, prepping products or anything else and selling them for the cheapest prices in the market. Gun makers are no different than the rest of the market. Have you ever shot any top of the line fire arms? If you have I promise you will instantly know the difference.
Shooting Times, Feb 2003: Hi Point 9mm carbine awarded ‘Consumer Best Buy rating from Gun Tests magazine’.
Not to say I’d buy one, but my son did, and likes it despite my irreverent attitude toward it. Several of his friends also bought Hi Points and are still shooting them, usually under harsh conditions because that’s how they ‘play’.
At IDPA/IPSC and Steel shoots, I’ve seen all manner of weapons, including the Hi Point, used in competition. Just because Jessie Abate doesn’t use one, doesn’t mean it has no value. Some people don’t have deep enough pockets to buy ‘top of the line Les Bauer Custom SD packages’ or are even interested in those kind. It’s just what they can afford when they need it or perhaps not interested enough in the shooting games to justify the expense of (ahem) ‘quality’ firearms.
And, yes, I’ve shot some ‘top of the line’ firearms and still stick to my Rugers before my Colt’s. Top of the line there, as far as I’m concerned. FWIW, most weapons I’ve seen jam up often are those race guns people love to brag up. (Was gonna insert a name or two here, but won’t.)
Just boils down to ‘whatever floats your boat’, I guess.
Well a carbine is not a pistol and I was talking about the quality of their pistols. Small caliber carbines are a fringe market anyways. There are not near as many companies that make them or put alot of work into it because there is a very small place for it in the shooting world. As far as the review goes i always take gun reviews from magazines with a grain of salt. Usually there is some type of financial interest there. If there’s not for some reason gun mags seem reluctant to give bad reviews for some reason. I’m not saying all the time but for example i have a subscription to one and I don’t think ive ever read a truly bad review in it perhaps just a few bad points. Like I asked before how did those people at the competitions place? The over whelming majority of people I’ve seen at competitions that are at all serious use quality firearms. I’m not saying you have to buy the top,of the line I’m just saying if you fired a les Baer, Wilson combat, glock or some other quality gun you would not want a hi point, Taurus, or keltec any more and you would know how inferior they are. You mentioned ruger. I think ruger is right up the alley of what we are talking about here quality for the price. I consider ruger to make very good firearms and if I couldn’t afford what I have I would buy one of their pistols (I have a ruger rifle). People that depend on guns for their life don’t carry these trashy guns.
Gun Test is one of the premiere magazines in the firearms industry, and like consumer reports, they report their findings. both good and bad.
As for the carbine being a different quality than the handguns, I would have to disagree, they use the same materials and quality control on their firearms.
I know quite a few LEOs who carry KelTec as backup pieces.
As for IDPA and IPSC, I’ve seen quite a few Hi-Point being used successfully. Sometimes using a lower end firearm is a challenge to see how good the shooter is, not the gun.
As for shooting high end firearms, as an instructor for more than 20 years, I have had the privilege to shoot just about anything you can name, including, suppressed and full auto. Please keep in mind that the question asked to this forum was the best firearm for the price, and as reliable as KelTec, Taurus, and Hi-Point have proven to be, I think they all make reasonable answers to that question.
The problem is i don’t think they have proven to be reliable. So why is it more challenging? Is it because its an inferior gun? I guess we are just coming from different spots. I’ve never seen anyone compete with those 3 brands of guns. I don’t know a single Leo that carries one nor have I seen one carry any of them. I’ve not seen any military group carry them. Even the Iraqi police and afghan police were carrying glocks and h&ks. Like I said before I’ve shot countless guns as well. As a matter of fact at work today i asked everyone what they thought of these 3 brands….no kidding after they stopped laughing they asked me if I was seriously thinking of buying one. These are all combat vets that shoot often, most carry, compete, and with very strong shooting back grounds. I kept the question well in mind and I think they are such poor quality guns i wouldn’t own them at any price. For 2 or 3 hundred extra dollars you can get a drastically better pistol.
I’m joining this debate a little late. As I understood the question, M.D. was asking where you get the most bang for the buck (pun intended).
I would have to go with the Glock 23. Why the 23 specifically you ask? Well, nice of you to ask. With the Glock 23 ($539.00) recently, you get the weapon and two magazines. Go to Amazon and buy a set of Tritium night sights ($80.00) and have them installed ($40.00). Surf on over to Lone Wolf Distributers and get two replacement barrels. One in 9mm and one in .357 Sig. Find a website that sells magazines at a reasonable price and get some extra 9mm magazines and some extra’s in .40 S&W. If you have any money left see about getting a LaserMax guide rod laser sight. All in all, with shipping this will cost you about $1000.00.
For that money, you have a WEAPON SYSTEM that can handle three different caliber of rounds, can be fired in low-light or no-light. Can be brought on target even when you can’t align the weapon to your eyes to get a proper sight picture, and can handle the larger magazines from the Glock 17 and the Glock 22 but not the other way around. You cannot get the smaller magazines into the larger weapons. BTW, the Glock 23 magazines in .40 S&W will properly hold and feed the .357 Sig ammunition. The 9mm magazines fit perfectly into the Glock 23.
So, to sum it up. For $1000.00 (roughly) you get a weapon system in three common calibers you can even fire when you can’t get a proper sight picture. That’s what? $333.33 a caliber.
I favor the Glock as I carried them for duty and personal carry for years … never let me down. however I like the CZs and ‘for the money’ makes me vote for the CZ. JMHO. Can always find them used – in good shape- for cheap.
Many decades ago in Tegucigalpa, I purchased (total price was $200 USD) a couple of crusty ( I did pay to have them tuned up ) .357 Roehm-Gehring revolvers and an old Stevens 12g (side by side).. Many US ranges ban Roehm Gehring revolvers as inferior (dangerous) saturday night specials. And they are indeed cheaply made and not my first ( or second or third) recommendation but ….I toted them all over Central America for three years and they never failed me in serious social encounters
You folks are smart enough to already know that whatever tools you can get (or afford) ; train a lot and be willing and able to use them. when miscreants give you no other choice. A ‘cheap’ gun at hand is better than no gun, eh?
Sig, HK, FN are VERY expensive $$$ out of the box. Period.
CZ, Taurus, Ruger, are not widely distributed. Parts, maint., accessories not as available. “Hobby Guns”…
Springfield XDM, S&W M&P close second. Neither have longevity and XDM must be sent in for repairs. Look promising after some experience and a few years in service. Wait & see for now. Smith in .40, XDM in 9mm.
GLOCK , especially G17/19 is the winner hands down. Maintenance free for the most part. Longevity in service. Widely used and issued. Military & LEO. Parts. Holsters, accessories. No smithing for standard factory parts. Clear winner in the field for SHTF. I am a fromer Jarhead, and long divorced from and retired my 2 beloved 1911’s. Springfield & Kimber. (Colt awhile ago) Never looked back. Better tools for the job, today. Can move on to other gear…Glock is it. For now, til something better, more servicable comes along.
My ruger krh-444.6-shot.yes 6-shot.44-specials for 2 legged creatures.44-mag.for other senerios.for me more is not better.capacity that is.do love the /45acp.though.
I picked Ruger,P-90,GP-100,p-89,MK2 Standard,all no problems.Charter Arms DAO .38 Special and Keltec P-11for CCW,no problems,have fired a lot of rounds through all of them.You can pay as much as you want for a handgun but it always goes back to what you shoot the best with and what you hit the best with,practice is the key to being able to protect your family,yourself,and possibly others.Be prepared and ready.Keep your powder dry.
The gun that best fits and suits you is the obvious choice overall. My “best” had to be changed from a S&W 425 in .45acp to single action .45 acp 1911 style. Arthritis and a serious right hand injury made my double action shooting pretty innacurate. I have two single action .357 cowboy guns one of them a Ruger Blackhawk (with 9mm cylinder for cheap surplus ammo scrounging) Coupled with Marlin lever action 1894c they make a formidable combo.Can’t beat them for accuracy, but slow to reload. I have a couple of .22 auto’s too just for target and plinking.
I voted Taurus 10 years ago I maybe would not have but we own several and I have found them to be accurate, reliable and well built regarless of the price. Then you add in they are priced to own that is the cake and eating it too. My pt 1911 has ton’s of extra’s and paid less than 500 brand new several years ago, and have never had a flaw. Would a Kimber be nice sure but I don’t make that kind of bank. and there millenium G-2 is a sweet little ccw.
I picked a Ruger because you get a quality firearm for the price. However, price is relative based on your financial mean. I own several Springfield XD’s, they are very reliable and are comfortable in my hands, I hate Glocks, don’t like how they feel or shot; everyone else loves them and that is okay. Also, Bersa is another good quality low cost gun that Should have been on the list
Best Handgun for the price is the one that I have with me %^% go’s south.
Best for Price: Smith and Wesson SD (MSRP is $369.)
Absolute Favorite: Smith & Wesson M&P ! (MSRP $569)
(Note: Real Accuracy is affected by much more than how consistently the barrel aligns the bullet flight wth the sights. The ergonomics of the grip and trigger, the recoil and ability of the shooter to reacquire the target and hold on target until the next discharge are CRiTICAL. My son is admitiedly a better shot than I am, and 45 pistols are known for their kick, but with the M&P 45 my son can put 6 rounds in a 1.5 inch target at 35 yards in 6 seconds. It is the only 45 wth which he can accomplish this.
Best for Price: Smith and Wesson SD (MSRP is $369.)
Absolute Favorite: Smith & Wesson M&P ! (MSRP $569)
(Note: Real Accuracy is affected by much more than how consistently the barrel aligns the bullet flight wth the sights. The ergonomics of the grip and trigger, the recoil and ability of the shooter to reacquire the target and hold on target until the next discharge are CRiTICAL. My son is admitiedly a better shot than I am, and 45 pistols are known for their kick, but with the M&P 45 my son can put 6 rounds in a 1.5 inch target at 35 yards in 6 seconds. It is the only 45 with which he can accomplish this.)
I have an M&P .22 which our training group has settled on for the first gun our students fire during range time. We have 7 or 8 of them between the group, and we were able to purchase them as an instructor deal at a reduced cost. One of the group also has the M&P 9mm and the size, feel, and controls are birtually identical, allowing someone to practice with inexpensive ammunition and still feel comfortable with the carry piece in 9mm.
H&K pistols are so largely over engineered to take MASSIVE amounts of punishment. Yes, Glock can take some pretty bad falls too. But from a pure longevity standpoint, the oversized (and fewer) springs and the single/double action hammer fire mechanism has long outlasted Glock in torture tests. Yes, for the money you could buy two Glocks to one HK. A used one will run you what a Glock runs new. But you’ll still be left with a much more robust piece of kit.
Smith & Wesson SD