Hiding Objects Within the Home

This guest post is by M. Roberts and entry in our non-fiction writing contest .

Most people have something to hide regardless if the object is valuable, sensitive, dangerous, illegal, or subject to confiscation. Storing objects in a safe under key or combination lock can be a good security measure, but not everyone wants a large, heavy, and expensive safe and a small safe bolted to the floor can only contain a limited number of items.

A safe of any size also commands attention from thieves and police as something which is virtually guaranteed to hold something special. Depending on size and weight, thieves sometimes take the entire safe without knowing what is inside.

If the homeowner is present then a burglar with a gun or police with a warrant can persuade them to open the safe immediately. Again, a safe can provide a high level of security, but sometimes it can also make sense to hide things in other locations around the home.

Most people also tend to hide things in places which can be found quite easily by burglars and police. For example, objects which have been hidden in a typical home can usually be found in a drawer or closet located in the master bedroom. Burglars and police know this to be true so they often begin their search in that part of the house.

Regardless if the home invader is a burglar or police, the amount of time they can invest in a search is limited. To be productive home invaders tend to follow the same basic three-part rule when conducting a search: 1) Look for interesting items which are openly-displayed, 2) shift attention to the most interesting containers, and 3) inspect other containers which are likely to hold something interesting. If you haven’t guessed already, they are looking for interesting things.

When a home invader begins a search they typically notice openly-displayed things such as a rifle on a gun rack, a plasma television mounted on a wall, or a jewelry box on a chest of drawers. This process usually only takes a matter of seconds per room before a deeper search begins, but we can slow them down by having more interesting (yet unimportant) things on display.

Taken to an extreme we can create distractions for home invaders, for overwhelming them with a large number of interesting display items can cause them to single out only the most exceptionally interesting things to inspect. It is quite possible they will overlook an interesting object because it lacks sparkle compared to all the other shiny things in the room. Another delaying tip is to secure some of those openly-displayed items with locked display cases.

The more time they spend trying to access and investigate displayed items the less time they have to sort through our containers. We can also create some diversions too. For example, hiding a gold coin inside a dull matchbook and leaving it on a coffee table will likely be overlooked because it is uninteresting and unlikely to contain anything special, but we can divert their attention away from it even more by placing a beer mug full of common coins right next to it.

In the next phase of the search their attention turns to storage spaces and interesting containers. Because there are more containers to search they will prioritize and inspect the most interesting containers first such as a closet, drawers, briefcase, suitcase, gun case, ammunition box, and decorated boxes. Each time the home invader accesses and inspects a storage space or container they will apply the three-part rule to prioritize their search. Regardless of how deep their search takes them they continue to follow the same rule.

It can sometimes be wise to hide certain “give-away” objects in easy-to-find places. Humans tend to look harder when their search produces little results, but home invaders are apt to call off a search once they found enough interesting things.

We’d like them to leave with nothing, but sometimes (mostly in the case of thieves) it would be better to have them leave early with an armload of minor and insignificant objects than to risk a prolonged search which exposes the things we really don’t want them to find. Take care, however, not to give them cause to prolong a search. For example, having an empty handgun box in the closet will inspire them to continue looking for that handgun.

Eventually, the most interesting containers will have been searched and their focus will shift to less-obvious containers which still hold promise of something interesting. Examples include mattresses, couch cushions, toilet tanks, and shoe boxes. They will continue to disregard dull and boring containers which are unlikely to contain something of interest, such as a toothpaste box or bottle of shampoo. A home likely has hundreds if not thousands of uninteresting containers, everything from sugar packets to garment pockets, so these things will probably not be inspected very closely, if at all.

There is no perfect hiding place as everything can be found with enough search time, but time is something home invaders do not have in excess. With that in mind, our goals should be to disguise things so they appear to be uninteresting and/or hide things in the most uninteresting and unlikely places while hoping their search time runs out before certain objects are discovered.

As a home invader works his way through a house the pantry is one of the last places to be searched. They will search for the most interesting objects and containers first which could include storage tubs, but very few people will take the time to carefully inspect each and every can of food. There are simply too many of them, they are not interesting, and it is unlikely a sealed can of food contains anything but food inside of it.

We can take advantage of that reasoning by using a can to hide small objects such as gold, jewelry, cash, bullets, etc. First, shop for a can of solid food (e.g. refried beans, cranberry sauce) which meets your size specifications, but is not a brand or food product you would normally consume. After carefully removing the label from a can of food use it as a template to cut out an identical-sized piece of thin yet firm and flexible cardboard.

Next, place the can on the work space so it can roll freely and cut it in half using a hack saw (take care not to bend the can!). After discarding the contents and washing the two halves of the can, insert the piece of cardboard into one half of the can and cover it with the other half of the can. The cardstock is the same size as the label so it should fit almost perfectly inside the can to serve as an inner support wall for both can halves.

Tightly pack objects inside the can while taking care to match the original weight of the product, seal it with strong tape, and carefully glue the original label back on to the can. Place it near the back of the pantry along with dozens of other cans of food to hide it. Because it is sealed at top and bottom and doesn’t make noise when shaken it will look and feel just like any other can of food. Yet, the owner will be able to identify by sight which can contains his valuables.

Hiding things under the floor boards is somewhat common but few searchers have the time to thoroughly investigate that possibility. However, these places can be searched rapidly with metal detectors so it’s not a great idea for hiding firearms, ammunition, coins, and precious metals.

Home invaders do not expect things will be hidden in messy or dangerous such as under aquarium rocks or behind an electrical outlet (turn the power off first!). These places are commonly overlooked during a search because they do not appear interesting, are unlikely to contain anything interesting, and are not easy to access and inspect.

With a bit of creativity fake sewage pipes can also be installed in a basement which have screw caps that serve as access points. Even the most dedicated searcher will likely avoid messing with sewage pipes which could leak or spill stinky human waste everywhere.

A cramped attic filled with loose insulation is another good place as few have the desire or time to sift through all that nasty fiberglass material in a dark and dirty place which is likely full of spiders and mice. However, because attics are dusty, they may notice foot and hand prints so conceal your tracks carefully.

If long-term storage is desired without the need for periodic access then the open spaces behind internal walls can be used to hide large and small objects. Repairing damaged drywall does take some skill but few will ever find what has been hidden behind a finished wall. Scanning a wall with a metal detector is unreliable as metal pipes and electrical wires oftentimes exist behind walls.

Floor level cabinetry, Formica countertops, and virtually all windows and doors have trim, molding or wall guards which can be modified with hinges or strong magnets to become access panels for secret storage spaces. Stair steps can also serve a cover for an accessible hiding place, but take care to secure it in a way which doesn’t cause an accidental fall.

Most doors of the home are hollow so they could also offer some well-concealed hiding places with access points at the top or bottom of the door. Keep in mind accessing these empty space areas of the home requires a bit of destruction as well as construction which rely heavily on carpentry skills. Shoddy workmanship will likely attract attention of a home invader to scrutinize something that is out-of-place so aim for perfection when tackling this kind of project.

Hollowed out furniture has been used to hide things for centuries, yet it’s not a very common practice today. A table leg doesn’t attract attention because nearly everyone has a few of them in their home. It’s difficult to determine if it’s hollow just by looking at it and most won’t expend the energy to do a lot of heavy lifting to inspect or access it (especially a pool table), so it can serve as a good hiding place.

Those who have a large library could consider hiding objects in a hollowed-out book as it takes time to inspect each one. However, this is a fairly common practice. What is not common is to expect to find a hollowed-out cavity inside a thick a stack of old home/garden magazines which have been tightly bound together with twine.

When an object is too close in our field of view then it often becomes difficult to see, which is the basic concept behind the idea of hiding something in plain sight. Suppose one desires to hide a map which marks the location of their buried caches.

No one else knows about the map or the buried caches, but discovery of the map could put your plans in jeopardy. After all, what else does a person do when they find a “treasure map” but go look for the treasure to find out what it is? Rather than hide the map it could be used instead to construct a plain-looking lampshade which is visible to everyone.

It will blend in quite well with a room décor theme which includes a globe and a picture of an old map. Someone could take the time to inspect the lamp itself, but they will likely overlook the obvious and set the lampshade aside when doing so. It simply isn’t interesting nor likely to contain something interesting.

This isn’t a topic which is discussed publicly very often because those who have great secret hiding places don’t want to reveal their locations. Even so, understanding a bit about the psychology and methodology involved can help us find or create some really good hiding places, plan distractions and diversions for home invaders, and even motivate them to stop a search sooner rather than later.

This contest will end on December 16 2012 – prizes include:

Well what are you waiting for – email your entries today. But please read the rules first… Yes

About M.D. Creekmore

M.D. Creekmore is the owner and editor of TheSurvivalistBlog.net. He is the author of four prepper related books and is regarded as one of the nations top survival and emergency preparedness experts. Read more about him here.


  1. Tactical G-Ma says:

    M. Roberts,
    Thanks for a well written and timely article. It is a challenge to hide valuables. As you pointed out, the less obvious, the less sparkle, the less attention an article commands makes it a good place to stash goodies.

  2. Here’s I way to hide stuff that I got from the SayUncle.com blog (Oct 31st):


    I really like this concept!

    • Tactical G-Ma says:

      I really like that as well and have some pieces with hidden compartments but these bookshelves are a little picey!

  3. Patriot to the end says:

    Thieves broke into my home a few months ago. Sorry suckers, I don’t have any jewelery. ha ha

    The police said that that was what they are looking for these days. They ignored the 3 to 4 dollars in cash on top my dresser. They tossed my 10″ bowie knife on the floor. Opened my medicine chest but left all my scrips there.

    They took a black briefcase and some of my military medals???

    They entered by a back window which cost me $165 to replace.

    They hit 5 homes in my subdivision that day and 30+ that month.

    The “takers” just supplementing their government freebies.

    The more the govt. gives, the more they take.

  4. I have a $20 bill on the little table just inside the front door. Can’t miss seeing it and if I open the door and it is still there I am confident no one has been in my home in my absense. I have another $20 bill on my dresser and it hold the contacts open on a small relay. You pull out the $20 bill and a loud outdoor alarm goes off and it cannot be shut off by sticking something back between those contacts. No home invader/thief can ignore cash so they will take it and when the alarm goes off they will run away. Simple but effective.

    • recoveringidiot says:

      SunnyD, the money idea is great! I never thought about using cash to set off an alarm. Seems like it would be very effective and inexpensive. What type of contacts did you use for the cash tripped alarm?

      • Not SunnyD, but I will give it a try,,,probable the window contacts could be used,,,any alarm contact that will close under pressure..I know Radio Shack has that type of contacts cheap..

      • A simple NC relay from Radio Shack. Put the $20 between the contacts. Run the wires to a second relay that is well hidden and wire the second relay so that once the relay is tripped the NO contacts both power the alarm but also power the relay keeping it on so that no matter what the bad guy does at the first relay he cannot shut the alarm off.

    • great idea…will be implemented

    • Great idea!

  5. Great article. But just a word from experience: Do Not put anything in books! Any searcher is not going to examine them, they are just going to rake them from the shelves and kick them around. Everything from paper money to carefully carved out niches will be exposed in the process.
    The bundles of magazines may work out better if kept in attic or basement and suitably weathered and grungy. Make them look ugly and old.

  6. SurvivorDan says:

    Of course, I’m merely making a morbid joke. Much as it tempts me, the thought of injuring a curious innocent, the inevitable legal charges for setting a dangerous device and the liability (even applying to a burglar) from the lawsuits from their surviving relatives stays my hand. Maybe a less-than-lethal booby trap? Spring loaded pie thrower? Pail of ooze above the closet door? Tension rod powered groin smasher?
    Ah the mind revels at the possibilities… 😉

    • Kitty litter thrower and a tension powered thingamajigger. Nothing worse than eating s**t and spitting out your whatchmacallits.

    • @ SurvivorDan

      Texas law (PC 9.44: Use of Device to Protect Property) allows the use of devices as long is it isn’t meant (or deliberatly deployed) to cause serious bodily injury or death. If you were in Texas the spring loaded pie thrower and pail of ooze would probably be good to go; groin smasher not so much.

      Check your state laws; you might be pleasantly surprised in the possiblilities as to what you could legally employ, though I doubt you could go full Rambo.

      (I am not a lawyer blah blah consult blah blah own risk blah)

      • recoveringidiot says:

        So that surf rod rigged with 20# line and a bunch of treble hooks that the invader/thief “accidentally” gets all tangled in while trying steal my lawnmower might get me in trouble?

        • If I can find I will post , but there was a pdf floating around about how to use fishing line and hooks as a layer of defense , but the pdf shows it for outside use as face rippers and tangles . Definitely for a post SHTF situation .

        • >>20# line and a bunch of treble hooks…might get me in trouble?<<

          Yeah, yeah, likely so. Punji sticks under the door mats also make the Public Servants get all squinty-eyed and sweaty, and they'll be squinting at you.

          But a grenade fastened to the door with the pin tied to the frame could at least become the stuff of song and legend. Especially if you came home one night after a few too many brewskis and forgot you'd left it there.

      • SurvivorDan says:

        blogRot: Love the blah blah disclaimers. 🙂

      • SurvivorDan says:

        Spring loaded pie thrower it is, my friend. Thanks. 😉

    • SurvivorDan says:

      MD saves me again from…..myself. I had in-artfully expressed myself in a previous comment and it vanished. As well it should have. Basically I was making,non-target-specific, death threats by advocating the employment of illegal contrivances. Ergo: lethal booby traps.
      Merely a jest of course, but MD must have groaned and wanted to keep me from the heightened interest of the Federal gendarmes. Not to mention keeping his blog’s reputation as pristine as ever.
      Thanks MD. Semper vilgilans.

  7. Mominator says:

    Since living in the dorms long ago during my college days, I have always used a tampon box to keep valuables; especially cash and jewlelry. I use a razor blade to open the box on the bottom, stuff money (You can fit a significant wad) or jewelry in a small pouch crammed between the tampons. Then, you reglue the box together. Most burglars are male and they tend to steer clear of feminine products. I make sure to keep $100 or so in my dresser so they think they have found my stash of cash.

  8. I’ve always heard about hiding things in plain sight and your detailed explanation makes even more sense, especially if it doesn’t look special. When you stated that the burglars will look for what looks interesting but you can overwhelm them with multiple interesting items, all I could think about was all the shoe boxes my mom had in her closet – not quite Imelda Marcos, but just think about it. Open a couple and all you find is shoes, it might make you reconsider looking in all the boxes. What about a person that collects jewelry boxes of all shapes and sizes? Would a thief even bother to search them?

    If we really think about it, we probably all have more hidey holes than we realize.

  9. I like that shelf unit in the video, JP. Nice looking, useful, and discrete. One downside to consider are the consequences of a burglar finding one drawer: they will tear the whole unit apart, and the video had a LOT of goodies stored inside. One doesn’t want to get into an “All the eggs in one basket” situation.

    I like the big, heavy, gun safe bolted to the floor in a walk in closet, especially if the safe just barely fits through the door after removing the door moldings. One may also be able to drive a couple of carriage bolts into each side of the door frame so they stick out far enough to prevent the safe from going through the door. Cost the bad guys time and noise.

    In the dim and distant past I lived in a century old apartment building with lathe and plaster walls, and solid wood paneled doors. In one bedroom there was a decent size closet which I turned into a security closet with very little work or expense.

    First, I got the landlord’s permission, which was readily given. Then I installed two deadbolts, high and low, about three feet apart. The distance makes it hard to pry it open. For safety, the locks have to be keyed on the outside, but levers on the inside: this is not a prison, and it will exist many years after I left. I did not want the possibility of kids someday locking another kid inside and leaving. Or burglars leaving me inside, for that matter.

    Then, since the door was paneled, I screwed a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood to the inside. Lots of screws into the oak frame.

    Since the door opened outward, I had two options to prevent a burglar from popping out the hinge pins and pulling the door out: the better, but more expensive option was to replace the hinges with security hinges, which use a small screw accessed from the inside to prevent the pins from pulling out.

    The option I used was to drill four holes into the hinge-side edge of the door and insert headless bolts, letting them protrude about 3/4 inch. When the door closed, those bolts fit into corresponding holes in the frame. You have to chamfer the outer edge of the holes a bit so the bolts can swing in.

    Nowadays, I believe you can buy commercial bolt/bolt hole liners, and those would be more secure.

    I did get hit by a burglar, but he apparently never noticed the closet door with deadbolts. If he had, I suspect he would have concentrated on it. The idea was not to make it perfectly safe, but to make him spend time and make noise tearing a door apart without my spending a lot of money.

    In another apartment, again with the owner’s permission, I made a hidey hole under the bathtub. There are a few inches clearance between the bottom of a tub and the floor, so a lot of thin stuff can go under there. I accessed the space from the kitchen as the tub was against the other side of a short kitchen wall.

    I removed the floor molding and cut a hole through the plasterboard for access to the underside of the tub. Then I paneled the wall with horizontal rough sawn redwood boards with quarter-round moldings along the walls, ceiling, and floor. I cut the lowest board a little short, so I could slide it over far enough to let me pull it out past the molding. It worked perfectly, and dressed up an ugly plasterboard wall.

    One mistake I made was in not expecting the boards to shrink as they dried. I had just butted them together, and when they shrank I could see the white wall behind. It didn’t make the hole less secure, but it would have looked a lot better if I had ship lapped the edges, or at least painted the wall black or dark brown before installing the paneling.

    One caution about hidey holes: it would be really nice to leave instructions to your family on how to find and access them in case you and your spouse are wiped out in an everyday run-of the mill accident. You don’t want your kids or family to sell the house but leave all the stuff you hid simply because they didn’t know about it.

    A letter in your safe deposit box makes a lot of sense. Adult kids of course could just be told ahead of time, but telling smaller ones is a real security risk: Kids like to tell friends about cool stuff.

  10. Good info, very sad that we need it. I guess the next thing we will all need to learn is how to hide our guns and how to board up our homes.

  11. This article is great! My home was burglarized a year ago and the shock of being invaded like that (it felt like the walls were suddenly made of glass) woke me up to a new level of consciousness. Every thing in this article is true; my stuff was stashed in those places and found and confiscated in moments. The police just said, “This isn’t CSI”, and advised me to get over it.
    But there ARE things to do, I see. I like it.

  12. Great information.

  13. good information . Another bad place to hide anything are the vents , people keep doing it anyway ………

  14. PJ Prepper says:

    This is a good article and addresses some legitimate concerns. I think it’s a good idea to have things hidden in areas where home invaders are least likely to look. In a quick B&E, smash and grab (if I were a thief) the first place I would go is the bedroom. Most people have their jewelry there or other valuables. After that it would be the home office. You have to figure you’ve only got a few minutes so time is of the essence. Forget the big screen TV and the expensive China. Jewelry and cash, maybe guns. Stuff that is easy to carry and will be easy to off load (sell).

    Personally (and we aren’t talking SHTF, Grid Down scenarios) if a thief is skilled and determined enough to get past my locks when I’m not home, not get seen by the neighbors in the process, get past my alarm system, get past my dogs, get INTO my safe (or get the safe out of the house)….he or she can have it. That’s why I have insurance.



  15. Sw't Tater says:

    Lots of good ideas, and the rationale gives more possibilities….

  16. Warmongerel says:

    For hollow doors, you can cut a strip out of the top of the door on the hinge side with a fine-tooth saw, wedge/glue a 3-sided, u-shaped box down in it and carefully replace the strip you cut out after you’ve loaded the stash up. If it’s long-term, you can use some wood filler in the cracks to make it feel normal. Just make sure that you stuff the excess space with rags or something so that anything loose doesn’t rattle around.

    Most people aren’t going to be inspecting the tops of your doors and, even if it’s the “authorities” with a metal detector, they’ll just think it’s detecting the hinge if you have certain metallic items in there.

  17. Great article. I am going to put some of those ideas into practice.

    I read that in the 1920’s, people built false walls in family homes to hide things, and many made extra money during Prohibition storing alcohol for whiskey runners.

  18. Alittle2late says:

    How about a deep kitty litter box with a false bottom? Hollow out a phone book? Take the molding off the bottom of your kitchen floor cabinets make a cubby hole between the floor and the cabinet and reattach molding with magnets. False bottom in your kitchen junk drawer.
    The scary thing is that food and water my become more valuable than cash and jewelry.
    Great subject thanks for getting my mind back on track.

    • Tactical G-Ma says:

      If you have a recessed medicine cabinet, remove the screws on each side and lift out. Easy access to the interior of the wall. Of course if it is an exterior wall it is probably full of insulation. Be sure you secure a cord to what ever you drop into the wall and secure the cord within reach but out of sight by pressing a brad or thumbtack to one of the studs. My favorite is in the movie Book of Eli. They are in a house where elderly people live and pull off the sofa coushions but instead of pulling out a sofa bed the sofa is loaded with guns. Lots of hidey holes when you look.

  19. Good article.

    The absolute best place to hide something is away from your home. This way, if some nosey guvmint man comes along, there isn’t anything to find.

    • Tactical G-Ma says:

      In the future I may have to worry about unlawful search and seizure, but right now I worry about thugs,dopers,and in general all forms of zombies. I live in a rural area but so do people who are hiding their activities from the law. Just have to be a little smarter and sleep with one eye open! Oh, and I use door and window contacts, motion detectors, noise detectors, and smoke and fire alarms along with cntral station monitoring. Our biggest deterent is the signage. Threatening being shot, mean dogs, and alarm systems seems to give most pause. That way if someone comes in on us, it is very serious.

      • Hunker-Down says:

        Tactical G-Ma,

        I like the sign that says,

        “Trespassers shot.
        Survivors prosecuted”.

        (I don’t see too well anymore).

        • Tactical G-Ma says:

          That is a good one .
          My first one says no trespassing. The second one says “You are now within range.”
          The house has the security signs and my target range is off to the side of the house. You got to be crazy to come around my house.

        • HD:

          I used to fail one of our tests in the military. You were supposed to yell “HALT!” then fire. I always get that backwards. But at least I said it 😉

          • Hunker-Down says:

            JP in MT,

            There was one O.D. who never liked how I greeted him when on night guard duty.
            I was never where he expected me to be. (hehehe).
            I was afraid that If I got too close behind him before screaming out the challenge word that he would shoot himself in the foot with that black thing strapped to his side.
            When the sun came up, we had to drive him to the chow hall because he couldn’t find it. But he was smart enough (Congress said) to tell us what color clothes to wear.

  20. When I was about 14-years-old, my house kept getting burglarized. My dad was getting tired of it and didn’t know what to do. My brother and I decided to take matters in our own hands. My dad had had back surgery and had plenty of pain killers on hand. I took his bottle of Demerol and replaced the medicine with 100 ExLax unflavored pills and put it on top of a $5 bill.

    About a week later, we got burglarized again. My dad was all hot under the collar and got out my great-granddad’s pistol. He was going over to a biker gang’s house to settle accounts. I stopped him and told him what we did. After he stopped laughing, he put the gun away. That was the last time we got burglarized.

    I don’t think the burglar ever got off the toilet.

    • LOVE it! There have been lots of petty robberies in the neighborhood where I live. Periodically they pick up some thieves and the robberies subside for a few months, then they start up again. Lots of people now have alarm systems, so that has deterred some. Recently though, I believe a house was hit by professionals as they also cut the phone lines. I’m rather curious as to what was actually stolen, but doubt I will ever learn.

      I remember back in the late 1970s to early 1980s, silver prices were skyrocketing and burglars were taking anything silver they could get their hands on from people’s houses then melting it down. Kinda makes me wonder about now too.

  21. j.r. guerra in s. tx. says:

    One cacheing trick I read I’ll pass along for small items – build INTO the building. Concrete block have cavities which items can be stored in. Encase item in heavy plastic and place inside cavity of block. Provide cover over item, and continue placing courses of block above. Done.

    To retrieve later on, a hammer can be used to break out the item(s) – it will take only a minute or so do that. Be sure you know exactly where that item is.

  22. Good article. Thanks.

  23. Patriot Dave says:

    M. Roberts, good article. I figured most preppers would already know all this stuff. But from the comments, There is still much to learn by all of us.
    To add on to the “uninteresting” idea, without giving away my secrets, think “dirty” and I will stop there.
    Here is a thought. I don’t know if it would work. If the guberment comes for your guns and utilizes canines to smell for them. Would it work to send the dogs on false trails with small amounts of gun powder in small baggies or even just sprinkled on the floor. After a few false positives, they may give up on the dogs and have to search by hand.
    One more thought. If this is stuff you want to take with you if you bug out, or GOOD, then you need to keep it easily accessible to you. Especially if time is of the essence.

  24. Way back when(early 80’s) I had my home broke into 4 times in a year.After haveing to clean up and replace everything I went down and got me one of those small safes like they sell at wally world,Keep it in the front hallway closet,you cant miss it.I keep my extra lead bars in it 😉 Have been broke into twice move over the years all I lost was that safe .LOL,I always wanted to see the crooks faces when they got them open.Keep my stuff locked up mostly not anywhere it is easy to find.

  25. I’m a little behind on email right now, but knew this article looked familiar. Turns out, I’d already read it via LewRockwell.com, who had featured it on Nov. 9. (I’m catching up on email by reading the newest first). Congrats on being featured! Note the bottom of the article on Lew’s site has a link for “best of MD Creekmore”.


    • NANN!,

      It was published here first – I let LewRockwell.com repost some of the article from The Survivalist Blog.net to help us spread the word and to get more folks prepping…

  26. Beware of people throwing your stuff out. Hiding stuff in bundled magazines as suggested might end up with them thrown out by a guest. And wouldn’t
    that suck.

  27. Good idea:)

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