How to put together your own bug out bag perimeter alarm kit… or how to sleep better at night when the “zombies” are on the move.

by Alexander T

In my bug out bag, or my get home bag, since I keep it in my vehicle at all times, I keep a little perimeter alarm kit. The whole kit is relatively small, lightweight and fits in a MOLLE mag pouch. I feel this kit is necessary should the SHTF. I figure that if this happens, I might have to be able to get home all by myself, over a long distance, possibly on foot.

Well, what if I have to spend the night who knows where? Maybe in an abandoned building. Or in a makeshift campsite in a clump of trees. Or maybe an old tractor-trailer. And if I have to sleep, I wouldn’t want to wake up with who knows standing over me or all my stuff gone. My trusty firearm won’t do me any good if I’m sleeping. So I put together a little perimeter alarm kit with the following features in mind.

  1. To be able to put up an alarm around a campsite.
  2. To be able to alarm doors and windows in a building.
  3. To be able to lock or secure doors in a building. This includes single doors, double doors, and doors that swing outward.
  4. To be able to black out windows preventing people from seeing in.
    The following is what I keep in my kit.
  5. door/window alarms. You can get them on eBay, home centers or Dollar General. I got mine at Dollar General, by Bell & Howell, 7 for 10 bucks.
  6. homemade alarm bases. These are just 3 ½ X 3 ½ pieces of ¾ in plywood.

I drilled a hole in each edge to be able to put a tent-peg thru. This allows me to place the alarm on a tent-peg. I also drilled 4 slots, on the face, ¼ in from each edge. This allows me to use a strap, rope or bungee cord around a pole or tree. I also put 2 pieces of Velcro tape 3” long on the back, along with the mating strips on the back of the alarm. This is so I don’t have to pull off the adhesive one time use strip on the back of the alarm. With the Velcro, I can reuse the base indefinitely, or not use the base if I don’t need it.

Snare wire and fishing line. (different colors) I believe this needs no explanation.

Two locks and 3 ft sections of chain. To lock a door if I’m able to. The 3 ft chain sections allows me to lock a gate or fence, and also double doors

Four door stops (wedges). To jam in between the door and the frame at he top, and the floor at the bottom, in case I can’t lock them.

Six door hinge pins. I made my using the pins from BBQ grill top hinges. I ground off the head and cut them in half to ¾ “ long using a hacksaw. They’re thicker and stronger than nails. On outward swinging doors, I take out a screw from the top and bottom hinge and insert the pins. This prevents someone from taking out the long pin holding the hinge together, pulling the hinge apart and lifting the door off.

Small bag of eye screws and “L” hooks, and tent pegs. If I’m in a building, I screw these into the walls to string the fishing line or snare wire in a variety of configurations to alarm multiple doors and windows. The tent pegs are for a campsite perimeter.

Plastic sandwich bags. I put these over the alarms should it be wet or raining outside.

Roll of 32 gal black trash bags. Using duct tape, I tape these to windows so people can’t see in.

I also keep a roll of duct tape, rubber bands, a few bungee cords, and a small multi-tool in the kit.

With this little handy kit, if I have to make my way home or have to bug out, hopefully I be able to alarm my surrounding and give myself a warning before my stuff gets stolen or wake up with someone standing over me.

I’m sure that the Wolf Pack has a wealth of other great ideas for bug out security – please share those ideas with the rest of the pack in the comments section below…


  1. Simple Prepperr says:

    Good advice.

  2. Shades of Green says:

    Wow!! This is a really great post. I have been thinking about this type of security as I travel alone to visit my family in Florida all the time. I take my BOB and trusty SR9c but had only thought of fishing line for security. I do wish you had posted pictures for the actual alarms and bases and an example of the hinge pin in place because I tend to be a visual person when it comes to stuff like that but this is a really good informative article. Thanks .

    • Waterboy says:

      I wish there were pictures as well. Worth a 1000 words and all…

      • The Mace brand 3 in 1 personal alarm can be purchased on Ebay for about twelve dollars. It includes attachments for doors and windows. The sound is 130 db and will wake the dead. It can also be used as a trip wire alarm. The unit also has a strobe so you can tell what area of your perimeter has been penetrated.

        Another item to consider carrying is Caltrops. They will penetrate a boot or truck tire easily. There are several different makes on Ebay. Needless to say you would incur great liability in deploying these devices so you should only use them in a WROL situation. Besides area denial for people and vehicles, they can be very effective if you are being chased on foot or by vehicle.

    • Yes…please do a followup with photos….we need a visual aid.

    • riverrider says:

      check youtube. vids of same.

    • I also would appreciate a visual if at all possable

  3. Thank you for the post. Maybe this is a dumb question, but are all MOLLE mag pouches the same?

    • Not necessarily, wide variety of styles and mag capacities. As others have stated, a picture…

      Molon Labe

    • MOLLE is the attachment system for any number of pouches, bags, holsters, knives etc.

  4. JP in MT says:

    I love these type of articles. The only problem is it adds more to my list of things I think I should have around. Some of my friends already think I’m the place to go when the store is out.

    • And more to carry, too. Back in the late 90’s I got this great internal frame milsurp backpack. It was huge–even came with a secondary pack. I got one of those ECWS 3 piece sleeping bag “systems”, an MSR expedition model stove that would burn gasoline, kerosene, white gasoline and even alcohol. Got the stainless steel cookset for it, too. Got several different ways to start fires, put together a first-aid kit, a bunch of other “survival” gear for just in case, and ended up going back to the surplus store and telling the guy that the backback was defective–once I put all of that cool survival stuff inside it, I couldn’t lift it to put it onto my back…

  5. ferndale says:

    really, really good post. i’ve thought about this before a bit, but this is a excellent start to finish plan.

  6. I think this is a good post to help initiate some discussion around alarms.
    IMHO the type of alarm used will be different based on your location and facility, where a tent-based alarm will be quite different from a home or building alarm.

    I would think that whatever alarm is used, you would not want a screaming horn or klaxon type, as everyone within earshot will be aware of the alarm going off and bring your location to focus; where a more subtle alarm does not announce your location as much.

    From a “bug out” perspective, I would suspect a tent, campsite, cave, or semi-permanent shelter would be the predominate type of setting, and here is where fishing line and snare wire with eye screws and tent pegs would be more appropriate. I will consider each of these as a ‘tent’ setting.

    I had read some other ideas around a tent setting alarm system where you set up either two or four segments of your alarm system so you get some notice as to the direction the intruder is coming from. With this scenario, a small ‘cat toy’ bell gets attached to the line for its respective perimeter segment, so you know the direction a threat is coming, and which direction needed to evade. Here, the lines are fed through eye screws in trees or brush and the bell is at your tent in its position respective to the quadrant it is attached.

    You need to determine how much alarm you need based on perimeter size and the length of line you have. The more line you have the larger the perimeter you can define. One issue is the visibility of fishing line or snare wire based on sunlight and reflection… so whatever you decide to set up, you need to figure out if a fishing line 10 inches above ground consistently is better than a diagonal stretch across a path…

    I am sure there are many more configurations to consider, and each will be specific to the current setting and only limited to your own imagination.

    • Instead of a klaxon type of alarm or cat bells, you guys gave me an idea of replacing the noise maker with a silver bullet type of sex toy vibrator, or salvaging the vibro thingie from an old cell phone. You could run a wire from your perimeter trip to a battery pack close to you. Stick the vibrator in your sock to wake you up. I’m in “mad inventor mode now. Thanks ;-)”

      • Holy Cow!

        I made that comment about 2 1/2 years ago. I like the silent vibrator alarm system but I have revised my thinking on this. Putting a system like that in place will take time, effort, and focus. As I get older, I’m not that industrious.

        Now-a-days, I’ll just opt for a dog. Call me “Old Fashioned”, “Obsolete” or even “Lazy”. I prefer to look at it as “Field Expedient”.

        It’s still a good article M.D. I’m glad you sometimes rerun the older ones. They are great reminders.

      • Sirius<

        I like the idea of a "vibrating alarm". Alerts me, but does not tell "them" I am aware.

        • JP,

          If you’re going to make something like that, be careful about the vibrator you use. My ex-girlfriend’s toy was louder than a weed whacker… seriously, and my cell phone on “vibrate” is actually louder than when it rings.

          • Sirius:

            My phone is about right if I leave in in the holster. About the other….I’ll defer to your experience.

    • You may also want a heads up before your perimeter is reached. Consider a microphone and battery operated mini amplifier:

      • Lux,

        I completely respect using electronics as perimeter warning devices. I could not have guarded nuclear weapons in the military without them. With that said, I’m still going to go low tech and rely on a dog. Here’s why…

        Electronics, especially like the one you posted in your link, are susceptible to moisture, corrosion, temperature and builder error, i.e. “cold solder joints”, not to mention faulty parts. Especially if you’re getting your stuff from Rat Shack, provided they are still in business in your town.

        Electronic listening devices are static, meaning they are stationary and will not, nor can they move to different locations. Finally, they are blind. All you can do is listen to what is coming over the wire/wireless connection.

        On the plus side is they are inexpensive… just make sure you have spare parts for them and the skill to make the repairs.

        Now lets talk about a dog. A dog can hear sounds, not only well outside the range of human hearing but also outside the range of low end consumer grade microphones. Especially those available at places like Rat Shack.

        While dogs are (effectively) color blind, it doesn’t matter after dark. We all are. Dogs really are not color blind, they just see different frequencies of the light spectrum. Granted, they are near sighted, however, they are not ever going to have to pass a driver’s test or visually have to identify someone out of a line-up. Their ability to see movement however is better than ours. Once they do, then the nose and ears take over.

        Now let’s talk about the nose. The olfactory acuity of a canine is not only far superior to a humans, but technology has yet to manufacture any device that even comes close to a dog’s ability to detect odors. That’s why military and law enforcement will use a dog over some company’s “sniffer” device for explosive/narcotic/human detection device. They are also much less prone to break down or malfunction.

        Here’s the good part. Dogs are mobile. Unlike a stationary microphone, a dog can detect a sound, seek it out, pin point it and either track it or warn the handler. Hell, let’s be honest, they can warn the handler while they are tracking the source. E.g. the barking.

        Different breeds have different levels of sight, scent, and auditory abilities. Standard poodles have better eyesight than a sheep dog. Blood hounds have a greater olfactory acuity than your garden variety “shake and piss” tea cup toy Chihuahua. Breeds with “stand up” ears like a shepherd or a Malinois can hear better than a dog with droopy ears like a Labrador.

        Unless the dog is chained to fixed object, they are mobile and have the ability to seek out the sight, scent, or sound that got their attention.

        Of course, dogs are more expensive to keep, train, and maintain than inexpensive electronics. They also cost more to repair (vet bills) than simple microphones, however overall, they are more cost effective in the long run. Especially if we are talking about our safety or that of the safety of our loved ones.

        Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that electronic surveillance devices don’t have their place, I’m simply saying that they are severely limited over that of a dog. Even an untrained dog.

        • Ian MacLeod says:

          It seems to me strong, invisible-in-the-dark fishing line, a carefully-braced pot and some rocks would make a fine alarm, and pots are multiple use. Of course a dog is too, but if you’re going to have one it MUST be carefully trained! A dog that barks and won’t shut up is a liability.

        • Hi Sirius,
          I am in agreement. there are good points to electronics.However I’m a believer in the dog. I had a German Shepard for 13 years and now with a Collie for the past 10 years. I’ve been graced to have had super intelligent companions that have safe guarded over the years. As much as you can train the dog, the dog trains us as well. When he shows any sign, from an ear twitch to head raise to full jump up and hit the door, I pay attention. With having a Collie, I found perimeter protection came easy. He always seeks a vantage point to watch over. His eyesight is tremendous, peripheral sight and straight on. And his agility is awesome.
          He’s warned about an intruder which I managed to hold a gun point till police arrived and warned of someone trying to break into to my truck, which his bark did wake the neighbors that night. They too know, when he barks, pay attention.
          I’ll always have a dog. not failed me yet.

          • Just a note I meant to bring up about my German Shepard. When out camping, once we pitched tent, she would walk out about 75 feet and mark off the area in a circle around the site. Every two hours or so, she’d get up, walk the perimeter and then come back taking a head count. She would literally make physical contact with each individual in the party before getting at ease. Gotta love instincts.

  7. Horse'sass says:

    I think this is a highly over looked area, even for the homestead. Let’s face it, you can not be on alert 24/7. The factor you need to mitigate this is adequate warning time.

    Simple things like hardening your window /door entrance points so that it takes someone 2 minutes to get through as opposed to a two second break through means you will have time to have focus all barrels, and regain full mental faculties after your deep sleep has been interrupted to greet the intruder.

    For now, anytime I am camping outdoors, would like to have a dual perimeter set up for redundancy.

  8. Great article, I will be traveling later this year to meet with my DM who lives in another state. We are going on a cruise. Looking forward to it but not sure about the timing, with everything that has been going on. I have been thinking about a GHB. I am also torn because my mom would be alone and would probably refuse to come with me, but the rest of my family is here and so are my preps. I pray that is not something that I wil have to face. I have been trying to talk her into moving closer to us.

  9. Like JP in MT, it is another good thing to add to our stash, when we have the money. If you can take pictures and add them to the site it would be appreciated. Like the others I am also a visual person.
    It was a great article, and not something I had thought about on travel safety since my dh and I usually together, but there are times I am by myself when he stays home and we live over 30++ miles from the nearest large town. Long hike home, and I keep and extra pair of walking shoes in the vehicle.

  10. Great post. I always think of diiferent ways to alarm a location if I would have to stay for a night or longer. There is a website that has some perimeter alarms here
    Haven’t tried any of them but I will definitely think about includeing the ideas from the post.

    • Nice Link

    • You may want to consider “party poppers”; much cheaper, not as loud, and smaller.
      Also if not recovered, no big investment lost.

    • have, use, and have modified the HV-5 12 ga. they use blanks BUT w/ a little mod. use shot. little claymores.(outer perimitor)
      also you can buy at the gun shows rocket flares with pull tabs with a few mods works great for inner perimitor

      • Instead of duct tape to install window covering use the blue or green painters tape. It is strong enough to hang the covering yet you can remove the window covering without destroying the bags.

  11. Some state offices offer free gun locks which have an 8-12″ flexible steel cable as a shackle. They aren’t as strong as a chain, but are much lighter and easier to carry. Because they are flexible they can be used in both small and large applications, such as lashing an item to a pack, locking a door/gate, or securing a motorcycle wheel to a bike fork to prevent theft.

    There are a number of battery-operated products out there for deaf people which would be ideal for perimeter security. Many of those products involve a vibrating unit which is worn on the wrist like a watch, but they include everything from alarm clocks and door bell alerts to home intruder alarms. A wireless motion sensor could be set up in various places and when one of them is triggered a vibrating unit worn on your wrist would wake you up. This silent alert system won’t give away your location, but neither will it scare off your intruder so be careful when dealing with that situation.

  12. Great ideas! Pictures please, if possible.

  13. Pictures would be very helpful. Some things I am unfamiliar with are hard to visualize. However, this is a very interesting and useful post, even without pictures.

  14. Tom Arnold says:

    Like others said, pictures would help. If you can give some more details about the tent alarm it would help – seems like some details are missing. I can’t visualize what wooden blocks on tent spikes does for you. Some details about what you do with the fishing line – do you tie it to your wrist or something?

    Sorry for all the questions. I just can’t see it in my head.


  15. Centurion says:

    Excellent article. I’ve been working on something similar for a while and I hadn’t thought about blacking out windows.

    Also, consider Wireless Driveway Alarms (battery powered) available at Harbor Freight for $18/each.

    I painted mine a dusty brown using Testors model paint. Put a piece of black electrical tape over the red LED that lights up on the detector unit when it is activated, and no one will even know they triggered the alarm. The advertised range is 400 ft… but is actually closer to 200′. However, it monitors a HUGE area when properly placed. I’ve had my kids walk 20 ft from it and it still detects the motion. It includes an ON/OFF switch so you can leave the perimeter without it going off. So, once you secure the building, sit one of these outside to cover the approach and know well before anyone gets within 50 feet of the door.

    • We use these at home and they do work really well and are definitely mobile – the only thing that I would say is that they are very sensitive to moving branches ( wind ) or anything else that should move within it’s range so you need to choose the position carefully….plus it’s a little loud when it does ring. Other than that it works great!

  16. TinLizzy says:

    I do wish there were some pictures. This is a real insight for me but I can’t put it together in my head; can you please, please furnish some visuals?

  17. Okay, in a “tent setting” imagine your tent in the middle of a circle, square, rectangle or other shaped area. For explanation purposes, consider your “tent” is the center of the crosshairs in a target scope and visualize a N-S and E-W grid with your tent in the center.

    Now imagine ‘your tent’ has a rear opening facing North, and a front opening facing South and you want to have four sections defined as quadrants. Walking around your camp set the boundary lengths (50-100 feet) in each of the N, S, E, and W ends

    Place a stake at the West center of your tent, tying your line to the stake; take your line out to your West perimeter boundary and use eye-screws for line support along the way, keeping a consistent height and clear unobstructed path.

    Now at your West boundary, start moving clockwise towards the North boundary continuing to use eye-screws to support your line along the way to trees or branches, making judgment call to the height of the trip wire/line until you reach your North boundary point; from the North boundary point now go straight to the back entrance of the tent, and as you are looking out of the back door of the tent, place this line to the left of the entrance (looking out) and tie on a toy bell. You have now set your Northwest perimeter.

    Using the same stake at the West side of the tent, and using the same eye screws, bring a new section of line out to the West boundary, and once at the West boundary, now move counter-clockwise toward the South boundary point. Again using eye screws to support the line at various heights to suit the location and catch potential traffic. Once at the South boundary, take the line straight to the front door of the tent and tie off the end to the left front door as you look at the door from the outside and attach another toy bell. You now have completed your Southwest quadrant perimeter, and the entire West side of camp.

    Repeat the same steps above to the East side of your tent, using one stake at the East center of your tent used for both the Northeast quadrant and the Southeast quadrant. Each time you follow a straight line from the stake on the side to the outer boundary. At the East outer boundary continue the same section of your line in a counter-clockwise direction until you reach the same North boundary eye-screw used for the Northwest line, and again, straight back to the tent, this time placing the bell on the other side of the opening. And you have set your Northeast perimeter alarm.

    Again, follow the pattern for the Southeast quadrant, again using the same eye-screw at the South boundary and straight back to the front door of the tent, this time tying the bell to the opposite side of the opening.

    While you are in the tent, if you look to the front door, and the bell to the left (looking out) is ringing, the intruder is coming from the SE… if the bell on the right is ringing they are coming from the SW. Also, from inside looking out the North door, the bell on the left ringing means the approach is from the NW, the bell on the right, they are approaching from the NE.

    You could modify this to use only two sections of perimeter, which would only provide they were approaching from the left or the right, and This would be IMHO if I did not have as many eye screws or line to set up a full 4 quadrant perimeter.
    With 4 quadrant sections, the bells ring on the South (front door) means you can evade going out the North (rear door); if the bells ring on the North door, you can evade through the South door.

  18. Great post. I would replace the locks for the chain with quality carabiners thus eliminating the keys and they are quick to handle as well as being usefull for many other things.

    Molon Labe

  19. Great post, and Mike, tks for the step-by-step that cleared up a lot of questions. I never planned to have a BOB, since I planned to hunker down,, but what an eye opener about what to do if Im stranded elsewhere when SHTF and have to walk home. A weapon would be nice, but pepper spray would pack well and could stay unattended in Jeep

    • R-Me & Pack;
      If you want a spray that reaches farther towards a target use wasp spray, it will go up to 20 feet(or more). Pepper spray is for us close and personal.
      If you work in an office women should keep this handy somewhere on their desk for a grab & spray for the bad bugs that might attack.
      Just thought you would like to know.

  20. LyndaKay says:

    Alexander T, you sure have given a lot of us something to add to our list of preps, customizing the security for our own situation!. It was a very interesting post, as are many of the replies. Thanks all.

  21. I recall some of the early James Bond novels that he made wedges for the door from paper, or toilet paper. Might be a nice technique to know.

  22. Christopher de Vidal says:

    Please explain the hinge pins, I don’t understand that. If you get the cheap door alarms, buy extra and test them first. We had several fail. Got them at Dollar Tree; If yours doesn’t have any, you can order them from the website, shipped to a local store, for free.

  23. j.r. guerra in s. tx. says:

    Keeping some cut wooden wedges out of 2x lumber would be handy to keep in your bag as well. Wedged into door jamb / threshold, they will cause the person opening to the door to use more force, warning the occupant of ‘impending company’.

  24. Good alarm for bears too! I have a good guard dog, so that’s my bell and whistle.

  25. If you have a fenced yard around your house, a couple of smallish barky dogs can sound the alarm day or night and they work even when the grid is down or after EMP. I have also seen rural homesteads where people kept Guinea fowl or geese as a natural form of alarm. Guinea fowl have the added bonus of liking to eat ticks if you live where Lyme disease is a problem. And geese will actually charge an intruder with an impressive display of hissing and wing flapping, but they may not be the best choice if you have small children visiting. By the way, if you have been considering getting a shipping container and converting it to a survival retreat, you may want to check out a company that sells turn-key, portable, one bedroom “apartments” made from shipping containers — just do a search for MODS International. I really want one of these, but have no place to put one.

  26. Alexander Turner says:

    After reading the comments to my article regarding my perimeter alarm kit, I sent in a couple of pics showing the alarm base with the alarm attached, and the other a pic of the hinge pins I use, and adfter I modify them. That was over a week ago, so I don;t know why they haven’t been put on the website yet.
    Alexander T

  27. I recently picked up some window/door alarms that run off of AA batteries off ebay, 10 for $8.50 imported from china. I tested them and function perfectly. I figured that and my over active Australian Sheppard together are a top notch alarm system.

    • oldalaskan says:

      My son gave me a “Slim Personal Alarm” made in China a pin type alarm 2 AAA batteries. Pull the pin and it is a very loud screamer. I have since purchased 10 more for perimeter security.

  28. Alarms are something I’ve given some thought to. I have three dogs but they snore so loud they won’t be any help in hearing an intruder at night. This has given me some great ideas. Nicely done! Thanks!

  29. Just me, but my perimeter would be much further out than the walls around my home. I’ve considered using Cylume glow sticks with rat traps and trip wires, using Tannerite with trip wires. or parachute flares with trip wires. Still thinking…but it’s hard.

  30. If you have a harbor freight in your area they sell driveway alarms cheap. Place the alarm at entryway to wherever you are camped and keep the receiver by your head and guarantee you it will wake you up. They sell little window alarms as well. Work sweet. I have these and they even go off if stray cat comes nosing around or a rabbit. Yes I know they are battery operated so you need to keep those handy but they work great and are light

  31. Elwood Gaspard says:

    Without pictures, the utility of this article is drastically reduced.

    A shame

  32. One more vote for photos or sketches.

  33. Great article.

    Sure wish we had those three year old pictures! :/

    I get everything except the hinge pin paragraph.

    Can anyone out there use a more descriptive analysis of what the author means in this case? I’d love to figure out how to prevent the “de-pinning” of a hinge to take it apart and take the door apart . . .


    • That’s easy. Mount the hinge so the pin portion is on the opposite side of where the bad guy is. You can also mortise hinges between the door and the frame. Unfortunately, hinges, locks and even doors and walls are vulnerable to breaching devices. You know, high tech things like sledge hammers.

      • Yeah, OK. That’s how almost all exterior doors work: They open INWARD and thus have the hinge pins on the INSIDE where the bad guys can’t get to them. Great.

        But the author in the article describes a situation where you are in a room where the doors open OUTWARD (i.e. the pins are on the OUTSIDE) and he is trying to describe how he uses these 3/4 inch long hard rods that he has prepared to keep the pins from being pulled out.

        Only I cannot picture how this is possible, even with his description. What am I missing?

        And, yeah, breaching devices will get thru the door, but if you’ve prepared correctly, you should have time to either run or shoot. The author is describing warning methods.

        • Bowser,

          If it’s your house, you get to decide which way the door opens and therefore where the hinges are. Mortising the hinges is an inexpensive but effective option. I have no idea what this author is talking about with the rods. There is not a door I can’t breach quickly.

          If you are talking about interior doors in a home, don’t forget, they are really nothing more than stiff cardboard. Even if you have a solid wood door, or a steel door, someone can always go through the drywall next to the door. A couple of good hits with a demo tool and you’re in. About the only warning you’re going to get is enough time to get upright off the bed.

          Concrete walls, or steel walls in a commercial or industrial building will offer much more resistance and the noise breaching them will give you warning enough.

          I can get through a wood or steel door in less than 10 seconds. An interior door in a residence is a joke. Those things only provide privacy, not security.

          It sounds to me like this guy developed a product that no one really needs and wants to make a lot of money off of it. Think late night infomercials. 99% of the products on the ‘as seen on TV” commercials are useless and only serve to make the inventor and marketers money.

          I would recommend functional design over warning devices. It’s just simpler. Remember the KISS method?

          I have no idea what you are missing. If you have this many questions about the efficacy of this product, then there must really be something fishy about it that is bothering you.

          There is nothing wrong with hiring a locksmith to come over and do a security evaluation.

          Good Luck.

  34. I’m with the pack….very visual person, and if I had a picture, it would be so much better for me to see exactly what you describe. I always use one of those door wedges that alarm (really loud)if someone tries to open the door. Sweet!

  35. JustCallMeAnn says:

    I want to hear them coming, but do not necessarily want them to know I’m there. I would include small baby monitor set-up. Keep the receiver on low, and tuck it under my pillow or in my shirt pocket. When the kids were little I noticed I could hear conversations in cars across the street from the apartment when I stepped out to the laundry room half a block away. Those with the resources might opt for more sophisticated hearing enhancements.

  36. Battery powered motion detectors are hard to beat for quick deployment. Beer cans with rocks and fishing line or combine fishing line,mouse traps,9v battery,Christmas light old style with filament and a firework of some type. Party poppers are good as well and easy. But don’t forget a shovel for holes in the ground if you are digging in.

  37. a picture would help

  38. Simon Young says:

    Or go everywhere with your dog. .. Because your gun can’t wake you up.

  39. Good stuff but all that kit doesn’t fit into a MOLLIE mag pouch…LOL. Thanks for the gouge.

  40. Illini Warrior says:

    think about using a yo yo fishing reel for quik & eazy perimeter line deployment ….

    doubles up for fishing and snaring ….

  41. The best option I’ve found is to take the fireworks that pull by two strings, take those and dip them in melted paraffin wax. Melt wax by heating water, and placing wax into double bowel setup. Put 15 wax coated fireworks into small container. Tie Knots into ends of fireworks before dipping. Otherwise it’s near impossible to hold knots. Test with string your carrying in your kit. They are extreamly loud and will last along time if coated and protected.!!!

  42. For a relatively inexpensive electronic perimeter security system, for use at home now and to take to the BOL, the Dakota Alert (MURS) motion detectors are great. If you’re at all technically inclined I wrote up some modifications you can make to increase their usefulness, including adding a trip wire for 360 degree monitoring if desired. If you have 12v power at your bugout location, a car / RV battery or a small solar setup, then the possibilities are almost limitless on what you can set them up to do. Do a web search on “dakota alert mat-mods” and it should be the first hit if interested.

  43. paracord wrapped around some of those ‘snapping’ claymores that set off loud shots when tripped. fun way to scare the sh!t out of an intruder, and get you up…

  44. OK. Let’s try this again. Sirius above didn’t get what I was asking about the hinge pins. After further searching online, I found the answer.

    Here’s the situation. You are NOT at your own home or anywhere where you had any say in how the room and door in question was constructed. You are on the move and you have decided to take a few hours shelter in a room where the doors open OUTWARD. This means that even if you secure the knob side of the door so that it will not open, a bad guy on the outside can still punch the pins out of the hinges and thus open the door. Normal door installation has the door open inward so that the hinge pins are on the inside and thus not accessible to a bad guy. Anyway, the hinges here are the weak point.

    The author describes having some homemade “hinge pins”. Actually, his terminology threw me off. Hinge pins are what go down thru the curls on the hinges and holds the two pieces together. It is the loss of such hinge pins that allow the hinge to become two separate pieces and thus allow the pulling the door out from the frame on that edge.

    What the author meant was that he made some homemade SECURITY STUDS for use in the hinges. Here’s how they work:

    With the door open, look at the face of the hinges. Find a place where a screw that goes into the jamb is directly opposite where a screw goes into the door. Put another way, find a place where, when the door is closed, the two screws would be pushed together almost head to head.

    Remove these two opposing screws.

    Push one of these homemade Security Studs into one of the holes leaving half of the stud exposed. When you close the door, the exposed half of the Security Stud will be pushed into the other hole.


    While this in no way prevents a bad guy on the outside from removing the hinge pins themselves, and separating the hinges into two separate pieces, he cannot then pull the door out from the frame because these Security Studs act as mini-deadlocks!

    While there may be other ways into or thru the door, if he is attempting to remove the hinge pins for what he thinks is an easy and quick way to open the door, the Security Studs will frustrate him long enough for you to hear him and either leave by another route or to ready your defense.

    Here is a site that sells commercially made permanent Security Studs if you have a door like this at home. The description is what allowed me to understand what the original author of this article was talking about:

    The description also gives some dimensions for those people wanting to make their own. For the price of a pair of them and considering the time and effort that I would spend making my own, I just might buy two pairs of each size to put into my own security kit.

    And I must mention this here as well. Have you ever wanted a really compact screwdriver for medium sized screws? I’m pretty sure that this one would work to install these Security Studs. Take a look (they’re cheap, too):,43411,43417,32215&p=32215

Before commenting, please read my Comments Policy - thanks!