I think it’s time we have another question and answer day – partially because it’s a good idea, but mainly because I have no idea what to write about today.
After posting more than 1,100 blog posts, coming up with new ideas on a daily bases can be a challenge.
So today, I thought I’d do something different and give the floor to you. The idea is simple, you pose a question related to survival and I or other readers answerer in the comments below.
Remember the questions need to be survival / preparedness related – food storage, gear, firearms, homesteading, foraging anything really as long as it will help you and others prepare.
Well enough of the preliminaries – lets get started. Ask your nagging survival queries in the comments below.
Join thousands of preppers and get all my survival tips for FREE! Subscribe to The Survivalist Blog dot Net via RSS or via e-mail.
{ 156 comments }
Can military ammo be used in hunting rifles & commercially made catridges in military rifles?
5.56 / .226 & 7.62 x 51 / .380 win.
First of all, 5.56 NATO rounds are the equivelant of the .223 remington, not the .226 . Second of all, 7.62×51 is the equivelant of the .308 not the .380 .
But in answer to your question, yes they can be used interchangably.
CITIZEN #777,
Survivor_1997 is correct they are interchangable.
Incorrect. They are not always interchangeable. 5.56 typically produces higher pressures than .223, and the result can be dangerous in a weapon designed only for .223. However, a weapon designed for 5.56 can handle the .223 rounds.
I believe there is little, if any, difference between .308 and 7.62×51
Josh you correct the 5.56 operates at a higher pressure than the .223. If your semi auto rifle is mil spec it will have no problem with either the 223 or 5.56. Some .223 caliber semi auto rifles have problems with broken firing pins and over pressure problems if 5.56 ammo is used. If you are using a pump or bolt action rifle either will function with little problem.
yah i use old mil surplus out of my savage 7.62X51 all the time
I am soooooo tired of this argument. Will a .22 kill you? Yes. Will a .45 kill ‘ya? Yes, it will. It is up to you. Not the piece you tote. Can YOU control your gun in a way that will get YOU and your FAMILY home, in a safe manner? If, by using your weapon, are you going to harm another person who did not wish YOU any harm? These are the things we need to think about, not how pretty is my gun.
Little Jerry
1. Do things like coffeepots and dehydrators get affected by an EPM?
2. Maybe you could write about what to do with all the wheat. I need to print out a few recipes for tortillas, no knead bread, and such.
3. Do you recommend burying a 5-gal bucket or two of food in the backyard in case of prep confiscation?
4. What are your thoughts on not appearing overly healthy and content when many others may be suffering and desperate? Esp. with children? I know not to “walk around munching M&Ms while sipping from my Camelbak” but should we go so far as to make fake shopping expeditions so we can not make ourselves a target?
5. If I get a ham license will I make myself known in a bad way? (I don’t know what I mean. Same thoughts about not following prepper blogs anonomously)
Thanks!
If “emergency food centers” are opened during an emergency or for other reasons (SHTF), I would make it a point to “particpate” getting in the lines of people (incl. your neighbors) to avoid drwaing attention to yourself.
Burying buckets of food is a good idea, but make sure that the buckets are well sealed and items insideprotected with mylar bags with O2 remover packets. Also, you will want to add dessicant packets to them to combat humidity. I would also suggest covering the buckets with heavy duty plastic bags before burying.
As far as EMP, if any items use computer chips in them there is a possiblity (especially if plugged in when EMP strikes) that they could be damaged.
Invest in a standard old time drip coffee pot. Rely on nothing but an open fire to get your morning cup of joe.
mama4x,
1. Do things like coffeepots and dehydrators get affected by an EPM?
When dealing with EMP the only sure thing is to plan on going primative, as anything connected to electrical cables can be affected by the pulse.
Snippet “The problem, of course, is that practically everything in our 21st-century society depends on electronic chips and other pieces of equipment,” writes Frank J. Gaffney of the Center for Security Policy. “Most especially, America’s electrical grid relies on a small number of transformers that manage the flows of energy within and between the country’s various regions. We no longer manufacture transformers, and replacing one from overseas suppliers can take up to a year.”
2. Maybe you could write about what to do with all the wheat. I need to print out a few recipes for tortillas, no knead bread, and such.
I agree – I need to cover this more. A great book and one I recomend is Cookin’ with Home Storage and How to Live on Wheat.
3. Do you recommend burying a 5-gal bucket or two of food in the backyard in case of prep confiscation?
Yes. But instead of useing a five gallon bucket, I have several homemade PVC pipe caches stuffed full of MRE’s. Most of my home storage is made up of basic grains and beans, but I favor the lighter weight and ease of preparation afforded by the MRE’s.
I’d also move away from the backyard out to a more secure area not likely to be searched.
4. What are your thoughts on not appearing overly healthy and content when many others may be suffering and desperate? Esp. with children? I know not to “walk around munching M&Ms while sipping from my Camelbak” but should we go so far as to make fake shopping expeditions so we can not make ourselves a target?
Each situation will be different – depending on location, type and length of disaster. Personally I think it best to keep a low profile.
5. If I get a ham license will I make myself known in a bad way? (I don’t know what I mean. Same thoughts about not following prepper blogs anonomously)
I don’t think getting a Ham license would make you any more of a traget than you already are (we’re all potential targets depending on who is doing the aiming) As for following prepper blogs anonymously – if you’re concerned look into Tor it’s free and it works. Just remember that there is no way of being completely anonomous if they (govenment) want to find you they can the best we can do is make it diffecult.
look up faraday cage for emp protction, would not protect anything in use also read ‘one second after’ by forscten
A couple of questions for you.
1) Any issues to be aware of in storing charcoal long term? Its one of my fuel sources as wood is sometimes difficult to come by in Arizona.
2) Emergency heating in a home with no fireplace or wood burning stove – whats a fella to do without spending a gazillion dollars on a wood burning stove?
Thanks for your great blog and keep it up. I truly enjoy reading the articles and tips.
Wood burning stoves really aren’t very expensive. Especially used ones. I suggest trawling garage sales and craigslist for people looking to sell their used, but still usable stoves.
There are no issue with storing (store bought bagged) charcoal. But you should be careful with “instant Light” charcoal because of flammable fuel element infused in it. Keep it away from any sources of flames or heat.
Craigs list is the way to go. I found a circa 1930′s wood/gas stove for less than $200.
Looks brand new. was kept in the guys basement and belonged to his greatgrandmother. He said it was just taking up room and wanted it gone. Some people have no idea about history or what they really have.
whats the burn time of 5lbs of charcoal? how much do you plan to store?
what type of airtight containers? x number of oxygen absorbers? space needed to store it all?
Now look at 20 lbs of propane. 1 bottle, no oxy absorbers x time of storage and space needed.
Or, look at one of MD’s sponsors. Kerosene is the 3rd world standard (next to wood) great stoves at great prices, 55 gal of kero can be stored for about a year with a stabilizer.
Explore your options, and remember you don’t have the hazard of carbon monoxide with kero.
Regarding Jerry’s answer. Kerosene can be stored for at least a decade. It should be stabilized and have a biocide in it and kept in the shade. Kerosene/diesel is an excellent fuel to store and very versatile. I highly recommend the type stoves/heaters sold by St Paul Mercantile. Plus you do have to worry about carbon monoxide when kerosene is used indoors. HTH
AZ rookie prepper
1) Any issues to be aware of in storing charcoal long term? Its one of my fuel sources as wood is sometimes difficult to come by in Arizona.
Charcoal’s main enemy is moisture keep it dry and it should have an indefinite shelf life. Store it in five gallon plastic buckets with lids.
2) Emergency heating in a home with no fireplace or wood burning stove – whats a fella to do without spending a gazillion dollars on a wood burning stove?
The Amazing $500 Wood-burning Stove … That You Can Build for $35 (or Less!)
Thanks for the tips. The charcoal is just “one” of my fuel sources, but I’m gonna ensure that it gets stored away from humidity sources.
Really like the “Amazing $500 Wood Burning Stove” will have that as my summer project.
I’d like to know what everyone else is doing if anything as far as weather prediction/forecasting goes.
LOL, N.D…. I think most of us are going to do what our ancestors did in the 1800′s: open the door, step outside, and decide what kind of weather we have.
OK, seriously, now. Weather really is pretty predictable in most parts of the country, and IMO, anyone who’s lived in an area more than a couple years will have a relatively good idea what the weather’s like. So when it comes to doing things as tilling up the garden, go by past practice. (Here in Northern MN, it’s risky getting the garden in before the last week of May in normal seasons. )
When it’s cold and snowy here, it’s time to gather the next year’s firewood, so winters are well taken care of, too. Also, that’s the time for mending harness, tools, cleaning crud off the summer time tools- in short, preparing for the next season. Also, the trap line gets attention daily, and some small game hunting in at the same time. Or ice fishing.
I think most fishing by survivalists will be winter and early spring if they have any kind of livestock and gardening to do, which will take an inordinate amount of time compared to running to the grocer.
Just a couple thoughts on the topic- but a very good question. Thanks for asking it.
Shy III
Prepared N.D
I have a Sima Products WX17 First Alert NOAA Emergency Alert Radio at only $26 it is a steal.
Thanks for the reply guys. I haven’t seen this mentioned so far in any preparedness sites. I’m a bit of a weather buff so I have my NOAA weather radios.. I also study weather folklore and try to look at the local forecast and then watch how nature reacts before the event. I also found a 12 month radar loop on youtube that allows you to watch how weather evolved across the U.S. in 2008 – it gives you a good idea of the patterns. Using that video, you can get an idea how fast a system moves across the country, so if NOAA is down I can listen to local weather in different states on shortwave or blowtorch AM sites (if they’re active) and know how long it will be before it reaches me.
Hi Prepared N.D.’
Aside from my NOAA radios, I have a manual that has detailed weather patterns for the entire country on a season-to-season basis with average wind speeds and directions, temperatures, etc.. It was designed to help in fallout predictions after nuclear detonations if actual weather forecasts were not available. This manual is probably impossible to get today and was printed in the 1970′s when the predessessor of FEMA was called DCPA (Defense Civil Protection Agency), a division of the Defense Department. Some of the Radiological Training Handbooks of that period had similar info as well and are more readily available.
1. Any ideas for homemade/natural mosquito and other bug repellent?
2. Has anyone found a high quality solar battery charger that will recharge
multiple D, AA, and 9 volt batteries? I have a small one, but it is
Chinese junk.
3. Homemade/natural sunscreen?
4. If you could only carry ONE survival device on you – what would it be?
I mean something that would fit in a pocket/belt, not a pack full of gear.
How about two, and three? Kits that fit in one pocket are allowed.
5. What do you see fellow surivivalist/preppers buying that you think
is a waste of money? For me, it is anything in mil camo. Anyone in
mil camo WTSHTF will be assumed to be an enemy combatant, a
deserter, or looter. Much better to buy “ordinary Joe” civilian clothes
that are semi – camo, such as brown plaid shirt, dark green work
pants, black ball cap for example.
6. What brand of boots do people prefer – looking for ones that
can be worn everywhere from office to in the field? I found an
interesting company: http://www.metatreks.com – they make boots with
three pounds of steel in each sole. You burn 20 – 40% more calories
just walking around, and strengthen your legs. They are really
comfortable and you don’t notice the weight (unless you try them
on a Stairmaster like I have!) I wouldn’t want to have to run away
from danger in them though.. Absolutely lethal if you are trained in martial
arts kicks.
OWWW! Three pounds of steel in them? Sound like you found the perfect use for them: getting exercise. If you have to do any serious walking in them, carrying a pack, you’re going to wish you’d put that extra six pounds in your pack as food or water.
As to what kind of boots to buy, my preferences are Redwing 6 or 8″ topped field boots for casual wear and hiking. For work, I prefer the steel toed Georgia Giant Logger with 8″ top. Toughest work boot I’ve ever used.
In a tennis shoe, I prefer the “walking” style over a jogger, due to better foot support, but that’s just my feeling on them.
Shy III
John,
1. Any ideas for homemade/natural mosquito and other bug repellent?
Taking Super B Complex everyday has been reported to work for some people.
3. Homemade/natural sunscreen?
Homemade Sunscreen
4. If you could only carry ONE survival device on you – what would it be?
I mean something that would fit in a pocket/belt, not a pack full of gear.
How about two, and three? Kits that fit in one pocket are allowed.
Swiss army knife and magnesium fire starter
5. What do you see fellow surivivalist/preppers buying that you think
is a waste of money?
Pots and pans, parts for cars, paper money ect.
6. What brand of boots do people prefer.
That depends on who you ask – I generaly wear hiking books from Wal Mart.
This is probably a dumb question, but when you grind wheat, do you end up with whole wheat flour, or is it the “white flour” that you normally see?
whole wheat. The white flour has been bleached.
Hard read winter wheat and hard white winter wheat are the items you should store (last 30 years if properly stored). You can then grind as needed to produce either most nutritious whole wheat or white wheat flour. Like another person previously mentioned, the store bought stuff is bleached, less nutritious as it ages fast and loses its nutritional base. (within one year after buying, refrigerating it slows this down a bit.)
Mama4x,
There are some great cookbooks. Grain of Truth by Beverly Prentice
The Amazing Wheat Book by LeArta Moulton, Country Beans by Rita
Bingham, Cookin with Home Storage by Vicki Tate and a lot of
the Storage Food websites have recipes. Can’t remember for sure but
Emergency Essentials, Walton Feed, Bluebird Grain Farms are a few.
Oh, and for those of you who want to learn to cook over a campfire,
Dutch Oven and Outdoor Cooking by Larry and Jeanie Walker.
http://www.mydutchoven.com
Was wondering if you have ever seen or used a Life Saver Bottle/Jerrycan?
http://www.lifesaversystems.com/
It looks like a good product and I am thinking about ordering one. Would you consider this over a Berley System?
Thanks.
Don O,
I’ve never used the Life Saver Bottle so I can’t give an answer from personal experience. But from what I’ve read the Life Saver Bottle appears to be an excellent product. I think both would serve their intended purpose well.
ive used them there good for the price
Hi Don,
Done a lot of reading about the lifesaver system. The thing that has stopped me from buying one is the limited shelf life. If you check the FAQ on their website the sealed life of the filter element is 3 years (they pack them in glycerin). If you open and prep it for use, you can get another 2 years out of it, so the total is 5 years.
Keep that in mind if you’re planning this for long term storage!
If you are storing well water in clean plastic 2 liter pop bottles or the big 5 gallon plastic water bottles, do you need to add bleach? Would you be able to use it right from the bottles, or would you need to boil or filter before using?
You can always treat potable water with (unscented) regular bleach, it wont hurt it in any case.
Long standing bottled water may taste a bit flat, but it’s absolutely usable. To get a “taste” back in it, pour the water between containers to get air back into it.
Realistic knife sharpening & maintenance for the non-professional, any tips or directions or…?
“Realistic knife sharpening” to me means “can I shave with it when done?” If I sharpen the knife, the answer is “yes, I can”.
To get to that point, use a fine diamond stone- unless you allow your blades to go flat-edge dull, then begin with a medium grind diamond.
Diamond stones use water as a lubricant- and be liberal with it while sharpening. Draw the knife from the tang edge to point across the length of the stone- don’t use a circular motion or just small part of the stone. What you’ll be doing is drawing the edge toward the direction of stroke travel. This prevents a burr from developing on the edge and cuts away any knicks a lot better. Do one stroke one direction, flip the blade 180 and do the opposite side in the same manner. Keep it up for an even number of strokes (keeps the edge wear even), then check the blade.
Draw the edge across your thumbnail: does it feel smooth or drag? If it drags, do a few more passes on the stone. If it’s smooth, you can try to shave a bit of hair from your arm. If it shaves the hair, consider it sharp.
Sharpening a knife takes a bit of practice, so don’t become discouraged if it doesn’t get sharp right away.
As you draw the blade across the stone, try to maintain the same angle as the original edge, not less angle for sure.
Dang, this sounds like a good blog post… think I’ll do it.
MD- you have some great questions here. Congrats!
Shy III
Great answer, thanks. I do want a surgical edge.
For us visual types maybe make a YouTube demo & see if MD will link it to this blog. Could be a great tool.
Check my blog- I just did a demo of sharpening.
Thanx.
Shy III
Jim,
Saw it thanks!
BTW, I’m a Glock 22
WITWCT,
I use the Smith’s DFPK Diamond Precision Knife Sharpening Kit – works great and easy to use.
I’m using the Diamond DMT stone, and agree- there’s nothing like a diamond to make a great edge, though I do have one Arkansas that is so close as to be negligible, but it does develop a hollow after years of use.
Shy III
Regarding 5.56X45 and .223 interchangeability:
You may safely shoot .223 ammunition in a rifle which chambered for 5.56. However, it may not be safe in some loadings to fire 5.56 in a rifle chambered for .223. Firing 5.56 ammunition in a .223 chamber may produce pressures in excess of the .223 SAAMI specifications and may even produce higher pressures than the 5.56 specifications due to the shorter throat.
While I have basic survival skills (I couldn’t dress a deer for love or money) I do want my preschooler to start to develop skills now – any book suggestions for teaching skills to kids – I’ll be learning along with him…
Thanks!
The old 1911 edition of the Boy Scout manual (dont have but heard it was good).
The Field and Forest Handy Book – Daniel Carter Beard
The Boy Mechanic, 200 classic things… – Popular Mechanics
The American Boys Handy Book – Daniel Carter Beard
I’ve got the bottom three. It has a bunch of DIY projects like building boats, shelters, log cabins, kites, bridges, camp utensils, all kinds of neat stuff. As long as you allow him to gain experience building things with his hands and you spend plenty of time outdoors and be observant of nature he’ll learn a lot of this stuff naturally. I play Army with my son a lot and when we walk around in the woods I point things out to him and he soaks up everything like a sponge. You could teach a preschooler to fish relatively easy and maybe even learn the ropes with a BB gun or .22 if you think he’s ready for that.
Thanks so much! I homeschool him and this will make a great round out as I head into summer. If you think of anything more later, I’d really appreciate your input.
Those are the only books I use but I have a ton of curriculum ideas I can share with you. You can reach me at tsbcontest@hotmail.com
Lots of good info on survival skills can be found on YouTube.
Dressing a deer is easy- a real piece of cake, actually. Since I haven’t got any pix of me doing it, I’ll describe it for you.
First: shoot a deer (or, if you’re like me and not averse to ‘roadkill’- fresh only!), then make a slice across the neck. Some old timers will tell you this is to “bleed” the animal, but it’s not true: you’ll bleed the animal as you gut and skin it. “Bleeding” was done in slaughterhouses where the blood could be trapped and recycled for blood sausage.
Second: Prop the deer on its back, then from your cut at the neck, make a cut to the groin area. Here you want to be careful to not puncture the abdominal muscle, just cut the skin. I do this by holding the blade between my first two fingers, then slowly cut down the hide. Once you reach the groin area, on a buck (they have a weenie and antlers if they’re big) make an incision around the weenie and gonads and anal opening back to your original cut.
Now you’re going to open the abdomen and remove the entrails- guts to those who’re gritty.
Make a cut from the top area of the abdomen- it’s that spot that hurts when you get poked just below your rib cage. The guts will begin to bulge out, just keep going all the way to the sphincter area. Now lay the critter on its side and pull the insides out. Be sure to keep the liver cuz it’s really good for you. (Before bagging the liver, step on it: you want to see what blows out; sometimes it’s liver flukes and if they do, discard the liver, though I have eaten liver with the flukes, some people balk at it. A good two-day soaking in salt water and careful slicing will eliminate the flukes- you’ll be able to see them.)
Once the intestinal area is out, reach up inside and pull down the lungs, heart and, if you slice deeplly enough, the trachea tube conected to the lungs and esophogus- connected to the stomach.
Long-winded explanation for a really simple job.
Whenever you shoot a deer- or any big game animal, IMO- you should let it age a week or so before butchering to let the meat cure. This is one of the prime reasons people complain about “gamey” taste in deer: it’s not aged. So long as it doesn’t freeze, and is kept about 40 degrees for a week, it’ll taste better than any beef you can find. Also, treat the animal with respect: you wouldn’t go to a meat shop and pay twenty bucks for a steak, then tie it to the roof of your car and drive home. Don’t do that to your deer, either.
Butchering… ummm, whole new topic. There are many good books on how to slice your steak and we should be able to google them.
Before the butchering process, though, we have to skin the critter. This is so simple as to defy logic.
Remember that cut you made at the throat? Continue it all around the neck. Now take a tennis ball, or similar sized object, and wrap a few turns under the hide. Tie a sturdy rope to this, wrapped around the hide, and tie it to a bumper. Tie the deer’s head to a tree. Then drive off. The hide peels back to the buttocks like a banana peel.
Shy III
That has to be the most concise and practical explantion I’ve ever seen – might even be willing to try it come deer season – or animal suicide season – the one were all sorts of furry creatures suddenly launch themselves under your truck – I hope to get a raccoon this year… my junior Daniel Boone needs a hat…
Thanks again Shy III…
Lake Lili
LakeLili,
The Boy Scout Handbook comes to mind.
the 1960′s edition of the Boy Scout Field Manuel, or any merit badge handbooks.
I can recommend Tom Brown’s Field Guide to Nature and Survival for Children. The book is written for parents and provides a lot of basic skill you can easily teach your children.
Just went and goggled that one and my thanks for introducing me to a great resource.
Thank you also to Lew and MDCreekmore for the Boy Scout field manuel and merit badge suggestions.
We are off to a busy summer!
Another good source. if you can find them are the foxfire series of books. They deal with simple life as we haven’t known for over a hundred years [please note there is a difference between a boy scout handbook, and the field manual. They are both good, the handbook teaches scouting the field manual is for when the scout gets afield.]
How may folks out their watch the Glen Beck Show? If so, or not, why? I for one watch everyday.
I watch him every now and then. I figure most TV/Radio personalities are just paid to parrot talking points, but I at least like to listen to parrots that I agree with lol.
I WATCH HIM ALOT.HE PUTS A NEW VIEW ON THE CRAP IN WASHINGTON AND I THINK ITS MOSTLY TRUE I BELIEVE.ITS STUFF YOU WILL NOT SEE OR HERE ON MSNBC.
re glen beck
i watch him every day
he is the one becon of truth in a sea of media lies
My tv viewing is limited to “off air”- too poor for cable or satellite and not worth watching, anyway. Nothing but commie propoganda on the boob tube.
Kidding- really, I’d watch Glenn and others if I had the ability. I don’t like his radio show cuz all he does is promote his tv show, and I’m in a pickle over it. Oe of my sisters loves his tv show, though.
Shy III
I watch him as often as I can and I listen to his radio program every day. I think he has been on the money in predicting what the progressives have done and what they are going to do to destroy this country and bring in a totalitarian government.
I rarely watch him. Partly because as a Canadian, I’m not as effected by what he says. Partly its because, while I’m centre-right on the canadian political spectrum, he’d consider me a radical leftist. Mostly though, it’s his delivery. I’m accumstomed to newscasters that never lose their dignity, whether they’re reporting on disasters or rescues. Watching a grown man panic while he tells me the news is less likely to make me believe him, and more likely to make me think he’s overreacting.
I listen to his radio show and watch on TV every day.
I think his recactions are only for effect. I think he has a great sense of humor and displays it well- more so on radio than TV.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ON GETTING FAMILY MEMBERS, MY DAUGHTER,TO GET SERIOUS ABOUT PREPPING?I HAVE TALKED,SHOWN HER THIS SITE,BAD NEWS CLIPPINGS AS TO MOTIVATE AND EDUCATE HER,I DONT HAVE A CLUE AS TO WHAT ELSE TO SAY.SHE STARTED THEN QUIT.JUST DONT HAVE A CLUE AS TO WHY THEY DONT GET IT.FROM JAY IN NC
Just ask her to make a list what foods she could, and could not, not live without. Then start to stock accordingly. Tell her to go to YouTube and punch in the words “Survival Skills” to give her some incentive by listening to others out there besides your good self. Kids listen to others,evn if the message is the same as that which you are trying to get across.
I like where Patton**** is going with this. What girl doesn’t like to shop? Have her shop with you for preparedness gear and give her the opportunity to pick her gear with your guidance.
You may also want to kill the utilities for a weekend. Actually show her what it’s like to be grid down and then introduce your preparations and show you how much more comfortable her life can be if she preps.
thanks for your input
It’s impossible to convince someone of somethinng they don’t want to believe, sometime all we can do is prepare for them. I’d keep trying – just avoid being pushy as this will only cause more resistance.
have her read ONE SECOND AFTER
Amen
the problem might lay in what you’re telling her to prep for. Young people are less likely to accept your reasoning that, “socialists, athiests and liberals” are going to destroy America. There’s a good chance that she has friends that meet those criteria, so if you’re telling her they’re evil you can expect skepticism.
You’ll probably have better luck getting her to prep for more natural disasters. Catastrophic snow storms, long term power outages, things like that.
Or you could go the zombie apocolypse route. You may as well use pop culture to your advantage. Zombie movies can be used as an allegory for all kinds of disease outbreaks or military actions in your country
What knowledge does anyone have concerning storing grains in clean metal garbage cans?
There are some that think it is unsafe and others that think it is OK to do.
We store grain at my father’s house in metal cans… about 300,000 bushels of it, all stored in big cans with permanent, cone-shaped lids
Nothing wrong with storing wheat in large metal can type containers. However, in order to properly store it to keep it air tight to extend life (and kill bugs -weevils), which is a must, you should store the wheat in large mylar bags first with O2 absorbers. I seen large garbage can style 55-gallon food grade mylar bags on E-Bay. A bit expensive, but worth it. Figure with O2 absorbers to use one 2000 cc absorber per every 5-gallons.
Nothing wrong with storing wheat in large metal can type containers. However, in order to properly store it to keep it air tight to extend life (and kill bugs -weevils), which is a must, you really should store the wheat in large mylar bags first with O2 absorbers. I seen large garbage can style 55-gallon food grade mylar bags on E-Bay. A bit expensive, but worth it. Figure with O2 absorbers to use one 2000 cc absorber per every 5-gallons.
I would package it in several 5-6gal mylar bags and stack them in the garbage can so you’re only introducing oxygen to a smaller batch instead of the whole thing. If I were going with a metal system, I believe a 55 gallon drum would be better if you can get your hands on it because you can bolt the lid down and seal it with a gasket. Ron Hood used a 55 gallon drum in Urban Master 1, he flushed the oxygen out by putting a block of dry ice in the drum and let it sublimate overnight before he locked the lid down.
Thanks everyone!
I had read that “galvanized” metal was toxic.
I am still looking for second hand food grade 55gal. barrels, locally
When building my rain harvesting system, I found good quality used food grade 55 gal barrels at my local feed store for $28 apeice. The large open top “pickle” barrels seem like they would work best for you versus the “closed top” bung-style barrels.
DW,
I’ve read conflicting reports on using galvanized steel containers for food storage – I found this one this morning;
http://zenstoves.net/Warning.htm
“Galvanized steel should never be used for cookware or food storage since this may lead to zinc poisoning (aka heavy metal poisoning). Exposure to high levels of zinc can cause lethargy, dizziness, nausea, fever, diarrhea, irritability, muscular stiffness and pain, loss of appetite, and reversible pancreatic and neurological damage”.
I read on the net awhile ago that cases of bottled water had crazy long shelf lives. As long as they were stored in a place where the temperature is moderate, the seal isn’t broken, and kept out of direct sunlight( the basement ).
I have 15 cases right now and haven’t thought about rotating due to this info.
Any conformations?
Bottled water is an expensive scam. 90% of it comes from tap water. Storing water by the case is a good idea, but you can do it easily enough by filling up cleaned out 2-liter soda bottles. If you choose, you can rotate this water every year or so. And it’s FREE!
I need a source for quality 3 season civilian outdoor/casual pants and shirts. Don’t want camo bdu’s as I like being the grey man and blending in. Pants can have the cargo pockets etc just no camo. They must be fast drying and in subdued colors and reasonably priced. Any sources? Thanks
I know that http://www.sportsmansguide.com has lots of military surplus clothing at low prices. Its not all camo.
Check out “511 gear” and “Propper” clothing lines.
Hi Homer,
Not sure where you are located but here in Ontario, we love Mark’s Work Wearhouse http://www2.marks.com/Category.asp?categoryID=195 especially their industrial section. Their products are generally well made and are reasonably priced. Even their heavier guage pants stand up well to hand washing.
Some military 7.62×51 has thicker brass that can get hung up on bolt action civilian .308 weapons and risk breaking the extractor. Stick with store bought for your hunting guns and use military for your battle rifles.
I’d take the same approach with .223 weapons and military 5.56 just to be safe.
I have a question about EMP.
How does it affect motors? I ask because I have a metal lathe and machinery and was wondering would an EMP burn out the wirings?
What happens if its not plugged in but in storage?
Theres a company that my friends used to work for that did EMP testing on their products and did a little testing for the military. I think DC/AC motors survived but they collected a huge charge. I can recall them talking about testing a motor then getting an unsuspecting friend to go get the motor so they would get zapped really hard by the built up charge. Something about the way the wire was wrapped caused them to collect a significant charge like a transformer. Lathe machinery is pretty pricey and mission critical, if it’s already in storage I would err on the side of caution and ground it really well and maybe drape a conductive material over it that is insulated from the lathe underneath – be sure to ground that as well to channel the current away from the lathe. My main concern with a motor would be the magnetic field that is created inside and if for some reason it doesn’t discharge naturally it might permanently magnetize the motor. That’s a crude way of protecting from EMP and wouldn’t catch all of it, but it will get the majority of it. It would take a really high current to burn wires so the EMP would have to be large in size and you would have to be in the bullseye zone. If your lathe is more advanced and has semiconductors/PLCs/etc you will have to shield it better.
What do you think about using solar powered yard lights for indoor lighting?
They appear to be getting better, but are they reliable & can you get spare bulbs?
Does anyone have a brand name for food grade 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or another big box store?
I bought some yard lights to use indoors. They work good as safety/night lights, you’re not going to be able to read with them unless you take two or three and bundle them together nearby. As far as replacement, they have 4 components: solar panel, battery, charge controller circuit, and the led. The one I have is molded together but if you could cut your way into it you can probably solder a new LED on there. I figure either the charge controller or the battery will be the first to die which will render it useless – but you might be able to salvage the panel and led and rig it to a battery mounted on a coke can or something and get some more use out of it.
Be careful getting food grade buckets at home improvement stores. Do not get the gray ones, because they are made from recycled materials and not safe for food storage. Some Lowes stores do carry food grade containers, but check with the manufacturer…do not depend on what the sales person in the store tells you (I made that mistake, but thankfully double checked with the manufacturer)…check with the source! I have been having better luck asking at grocery store deli’s and bakeries. The local Walmart now recycles their buckets, so they are lost source around here. It may require some searching, but buckets are out there for free, just always check with the manufacturer if it isn’t obvious it is food grade (the ones I get from the Publix bakery still have the sticker on them that tells what was in the bucket…i.e. Five Grain Mix, etc.) Happy hunting! =-)
Shades,
Sometimes even checking with the manufacturer is’nt a sure thing. About two years a go while doing research on this subject I call the manufacturer of a five gallon bucket that I boutght at Wal Mart, the lady I talked to said yes their buckets were food grade, out of curiosity I called back a month later and was told no the buckets were not food grade.
They could have changed the manufacturing process during that time – I don’t know but it goes to show even calling the manufacture is not a 100% accurate 100% of the time.
Called a different manufacture and the guy told me all buckets made with HDPE are food grade.
I think the safest thing is to use a metallized liner no matter what the manufacture tells you.
The best 5-gallon buckets are the ones that have the marking on them of what then contained (e.g.- mayonnaise, frosting, etc). To be extra cautious, after cleaning the bucket and lid, use a mylar bag lining inside the buckets and seal them using a hand held iron after inserting an O2 absorber in the bag and pushing most of the air out.
I once thought I had hit a “motherlode” of buckets that I found at a local farm. They were used to hold seeds. They were $1 each with lids. Found out later (after reading the label left on the buckets) that these seeds were treated with chemicals to kill bugs…… I did not throw them out however, because buckets would be very hard to come by in a SHTF situation, and make a good barter item.
We have found success looking for 5-gallon buckets at donut shops and Mexican restaurants.
When the SHTF, there will be crops of individuals without drugs, legal or otherwise. Now that many thousands in every city/town and state nationwide are using legal and illegal DRUGS there will be a real problem for a while for those of us who are not using them. As a result, two questions come to mind: 1-How can one handle those that are “high/addicted from illegal drugs” and/or “high/addicted to legal drugs” as those individuals under their influence (what they cause the mind to do) can be very hard to knock out with one punch, blow or hit which is not always enough. 2-What should we do when dealing with or confronted with those that are withdrawing and have no way of getting anything to fill their needs and therefore they are very aggressive and may likely be potentially dangerous? The mind, unless it is stopped althogether, is a difficult thing to combat especially when combined with drugs which cause the loss of bodily feeling, thought and emotions or cause hallucinations and there is no conversing with those that are afflicted by mind-altering drugs. They may stop at nothing to do whatever it is that’s on their mind of which, under the altered state of which drugs have caused, may be things they are not aware they are doing. Again, how can we handle this and what should we do?
You follow the 3 S’s: Shoot, shovel and shut up.
ZOMBIE Drug addicts or the dangerously mentally ill may have to be shot in your (or your family’s) self-defence / self prerservation. They will become DANGEROUS and potentially LIFE THREATENING. They may also be armed. If you are not ready / able to use deadly force if necessary for your protectiion, you will probably succumb at some early point in a SHTF crisis at the hands of someone or group who wants – or thinks that they “deserve” – your food or other vital prep resources. I suggest you read the book “Kill or Be killed.”
Remember that an addicts ‘food’ is drugs. The need drugs more than food. One of the first places that will be looted in a SHTF situation are clinics, pharmacies, vets offices and hospitals.
Read “One Second After” to see how the problem of “legal” prescription drug users was handled.
Survival may come down to protecting and defending yourself, family and life-saving provisions etc. I for one will not hesitate to do what is necessary if the situation warrants.
i have that problem i am type one diabetic so my family needs to be set so that when i run out of insulin they can get on without me
Years ago James Burke narrated a series called Connections. The first show was called The Trigger Effect – it detailed our dependence on complex technological networks using New York City and the power blackout of 1965 as its example . It also looked at agricultural technology tracing it from Ancient Egypt and the invention of the plow to the present and agribusiness. The segment ends in Kuwait where, because of oil, society leapt from traditional patterns to advanced technology in a period of only about 30 years. This show was made in 1978 and even back then he had a line that said in effect… You make it out of the city… you make it to a farm… what in your pampered life has ever prepared you for pulling the trigger to take what you need to survive and then to defend it against the next wave of invaders…
But bluntly those family members with serious medical needs know that their days are numbered. The medicines needed to keep them alive are out of production. And those family members who are addicted are a liability to the survival of the rest. While it is pretty to say that a society is judged by how they care for their weakest members, that may not be a luxury we can afford. We are all only as strong as our weakest link.
My father has a heart condition and we have talked about his long term survival odds should the SHTF – he doesn’t peg them as very high – lack of meds and the sheer amount of hard labour will take him long before we’ve picked his brain clean of all the usefu information he has tucked away…
Kate: WELL SAID!!! LOL
I have some of my electronics nested in steel ammo boxes. Are these sufficient for mitagating the effects of EMP; and how should they (or, in fact, should they) be grounded?
I also have an aluminum box with an aluminum cover that fits over it. The aluminum cover has a four inch overhang around all four sides and touches the box all the way around, but not tightly in some places. Would the fact that the lid doesn’t have an “air-tight” fit be a problem? All of the electronic items inside are doubly nested and wrapped in thick, durable aluminum foil.
After TSHTF how is one suppose to refrigerate their food? A propane refrigerator will run out of propane so you can not count on that. Not everyone has a cool running creek to put their perishables in. And since it is recommended that to keep foods cooled to 40 degrees a root cellar in the middle of summer won’t work. Any other sollutions after society totally breaks down?
if you’re located in an area that has a heavy winter you might consider an ice house. that’s a solution that’s not worth implementing unless its a permanent end of the world scenario, though
I have pondered this question for a few years now and I have concluded that you must have a different attitude on what refrigeration is and what it can do. Rather than saving dinner left-overs, try planning meals so there aren’t any leftovers that require refrigeration. Learn how to can meat, fruits and veggies. That way, what you must cool will be minimized.
When you do have something that needs to be cooled, you can put it in a cooling box. The idea uses evaporation to create an enclosed cool area. (Works best in low humitidy areas.) I have seen both a wooden box and clay pots used. This will help (the clay pot idea is used in Africa) but only for a few days; certainly not the weeks we are used to now. Google “Refrigeration without electricity”.
This summer I am going to make a cooling box with clay pots to see just how cool it will get here in the hot, humid south.
I don’t know why but the reply button is not working for me.
For W:
I have read that using a microwave oven provides protection against EMP
For Wanderin: If it is a long term SHTF, then we would have to go back to the method our grandparents and great grandparents used. Cut blocks of ice out of rivers and lakes during the winter, use “iceboxes” (sawdust insulated refridgerators) and ice houses.
Regarding EMP…would the clothes dryer work? I stick my laptop in the dryer when not in use (and when I’m not using the dryer for its intended purpose!). Just wondering if that was a crazy idea or not. I had not thought of the microwave. Good to know.
Hi Shades, Just don’t forget one day and use your dryer without taking out your laptop..lol..That could be bad…
Quick question about faraday cage……….my home is a metal 76ft long trailer with metal roof and grounded to the metal frame at each end…….can I count “it” as a faraday cage? Im not worried about anthing in the house other than my computer that is all that is on during the day but my pacemaker was why I ask….and yes I have asked the docs and the company that makes it but of course they are gonna say “it will be fine!” I trust them about as much as I do goverment! shaking head……just curious…….
The microwave oven is good for protecting from EMP. The cord should be cut off so that it doesn’t act as an antenna. Otherwise, with the cord on, you would “fry” the electronics you’re trying to protect. The microwave oven, on the other hand, doesn’t lend well to mobility. One article suggests using a refrigerator. These are all fine, but not very stealthy storage containers and certainly not practical in limited spaces.
If anyone knows of a good publication (that isn’t so ultra-technical that you need a doctorate in nuclear physics to understand it) that deals with EMP and the methods us ordinary people can use to protect ourselves against it, please share it. Read M.D.’s blog posting from 2 March about the book, One Second After. Some of the links at the bottom give some valuable information. Other information I have read on this subject seems to offer some confusion in regard to grounding. The other issue I raised in an earlier question concerns gaps (although small) in an aluminum box (which happens to be, along with copper, one of the best at protecting against EMP). I’m sure I have some protection with the way I have it shielded, but the electronic equipment I’m trying to protect is fairly current stuff and would be most at risk from EMP. Some of my older stuff is more robust and the ammo box would be fine for shielding them.
Should I find some good information resources concerning EMP or if I find the answer to my questions, I’ll share it.
Even in the hardcore scientific reports there is too much conflicting evidence. For every report saying something offered protection, there will be another report that says it doesn’t work – this is because the effects of EMP vary with atmospheric/terrestrial conditions. My solution is overkill:
Layer 1:
.50 Cal Ammo Boxes stored on a metal shelf that is independently grounded. The insides of the box have thin bubble wrap glued into place to insulate from layer 2.
Layer 2:
Small shoe box that goes inside that has heavy duty aluminum foil glued to it (with a little bit of overhang to cover the gap). The cardboard on the inside of the box acts as the insulator for that level. If you wanted even more, you could stuff the shoe box with insulating material to increase thickness and it’s ability to protect. Here is a list of common insulators (the higher the number the better)
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_3/6.html
Layer 3:
Equipment is placed inside ESD bags which is then placed inside bubble wrap (end folded or taped down) to offer a little more insulation.
According to the people I’ve collaborated with (see above post on EMP), this will protect from all of the wave lengths they have tested – this is what they use in their own preps. The current/voltage produced by the EMP itself really isn’t that much of an issue because even one layer of aluminum foil will stop a 30,000v arc for several seconds before beginning to burn through. The high voltage phase of an EMP will last milliseconds. The really destructive phase is the long wavelengths that travel along powerlines that can last for several seconds. This is why you need to use an independent ground for the shelving because the ground used in your home electrical system could be compromised due to all the electricity flowing in from the miles of wire connected to your house. The last statement is unlikely but they’ve proven on paper that it is plausible.
The above is overkill, odds are you won’t need that much protection. A microwave, dryer, or steel cabinet used with an insulator might be all you need. But the above is the best protection you can get without having a farraday cage professionally designed/installed. To the person with the house trailer, it won’t work as a farraday cage because of the windows/doors/underbelly of the house.
Important: After an event, you should take an insulated screw driver with wire attached to ground, or a grounding wand and touch each layer of protection to discharge the current stored (in case the ground failed). Do this one layer at a time as you get to your equipment: shelf, ammo box, inside box, good to go.
Another thing that I have been thinking about is after the event, it would probably be best to re-secure your equipment when not in use, and try to avoid high amounts of usage initially. If there was one blast causing EMP, there will probably be another in the first few months. It would really suck to survive an EMP, have all your gear out and then get it fried by a second EMP.
Hope this helps.
Lots of good information. Thank you!
Thanks Prepared N.D. This is the information I was looking for. After sleeping on the question, I suspected the correct answer. I have the layers and now I’ll independently ground the outer one. (I think you might agree with me not to ground it to the cold water pipe in the house as this pipe may, in fact, act as an antenna.)
Last night I read some thoughts on this subject written by Duncan Long back in 1989 concerning EMP shielding. He suggested grounding as well. Another source said not to bother with grounding the Faraday cage but to place it on a non-conducting surface and to handle carefully after the event. Nice, but the writer didn’t specify exactly what he meant by “handle carefully”. You have cleared this up for me. Thanks.
Glad you’re with us. (W)
The other issue I was concerned about was the slightly loose-fitting aluminum lid on the aluminum Faraday box. After some reading, most of what I learned was that the lid needs good conductivity to the box. In order to increase the conductivity, I will add an edge of aluminum foil to the box to increase this. I figure it can’t hurt but only help make the box more unified. (W)
I guess I could add that in a post several weeks ago I mentioned that I added EMP protection to my soft laptop case by adding aluminum foil to it but this will NOT work because the gaps (zipper) were too wide. They suggested that I use an aluminum briefcase type laptop case that has the foam insulation on the inside as long as the gaps aren’t big, and if I wanted to go further than that I could just put the aluminum case in a large filing cabinet drawer that has been lined with cardboard.
They also recommended I store AA/AAA/C/D/9v batteries in the ammo tins (some short-out, some don’t) and you also have to remember to put your battery chargers, AC/DC adapters, cigarette lighter adapters, etc in the tin because they’re just as vulnerable.
I asked about car batteries but they couldn’t give me a definitive answer because they’re not allowed to test those because of the hazardous materials.
Exceptionally good help! Thank you. (W)
I have a concern. With all of the earthquakes going on around the world, I’d like to know if there is anything that a person could buy or build for inside their house which would protect a couple of people from being crushed.
I have a woodshop, and build things, but I have seen photos of buildings that have gone through a quake, and it seems that NOTHING remains standing, or uncollapsed. This is a challenging question that I have been thinking about for some time, and not coming up with any answers.Maybe I should say that it must be big enough for two people, some tools, maybe a chainsaw, food, water,etc. in small amounts. Any ideas?
I know the best idea is to get the heck out of the house, but there isn’t always enough time to do that.
Mine cribbing, how they brace mines against collapse. this is a well studied field and should yield info to a search
Thanks, I’ll look it up.
I looked it up and don’t think any of it sounds applicable. Mines seem to collapse easy enough even without an earthquake,from what I read.Don’t think those apps. would work. Most are concrete,anyway.Any other ideas?
There are two ways that I can think of. First would be to install a Safe Room inside your house. Since your house is existing, you would have to pour a slab and add it on to the exterior of your house as a wing. Kinda defeats the purpose because if you can run to the far end of the house, you might as well run outside. They also cost $30K+
http://www.safecastle.com/safe-rooms.php
In Japan and California, they retrofit existing older homes up to earthquake code. The people who do this may be able to shed a little more light on what kind of protection you can expect. If I had to guess if you put enough structural steel in a small interior room like a bathroom, the house might collapse around it instead of flattening it, but then again I’m no structural engineer. I just know in the south they say to go to an interior bathroom because the pipes reinforce the walls, in a lot of the damage photos you can see the bathroom is left standing when smaller tornadoes strike.
I suggest forwarding your question to these people:
http://earthquakesafety.com/retrofitting/seismic_retrofitting.html
I am looking for a washing mangle… Nothing fancy – a table top attachment would be great (and space saving)… Has anyone seen a source for them? There are some lovely ones on eby.co.uk but the cost of transporting them to Canada would be insane… Thanks!
http://www.katom.com/370-MBKWRG.html
Not as elegant but that’s what I use lol.
Thanks!
Finally found a table top model through Lehmans… for about US$140
http://www.lehmans.com/store/Home_Goods___Laundry___Washing___Our_Good_Wringer___38150?Args=
My question is: You are well stocked with food and supplies and can do well on your own . Then an emergency happens, if/when the fema ever gets there act together and they start passing out food and supplies. Do you go and get the supplies from the fema? or do you keep a low profile and hope no one remembers your name and where you live?
Nads…to answer your question in one word: “Yes.”
Don’t be doing anything “out of the ordinary of the gray man” even after the Stuff flies.
Of course, you have to use your brain a bit in dealing with the FEMA people, so don’t be in a great big haste to get to the head of the line so you can get home to protect your supplies.
Thinking about the FEMA bit: if I have to sign my name or go inside any building to get the supplies, I think I’d pass on them. That isn’t being either “gray” nor “wise”, IMO. Reasons: By signing my name, they now have a record of me and I don’t want them to, but that’s my opinion- your opinion may vary. As to going inside: being a wild animal that I am, I hate being caged, and going inside a building with any kind of dotgov officials within shooting distance is putting my freedom in jeopardy. In cases of a full-blown martial law situation or SHTF type thing, I absolutely will not put it past the fed to use FEMA supplies to entice and then incarcerate the needy.
That said, it’s going to be up to you to pay attention to what’s going on, decide how far you’ll trust the fedgov, or any gov, and please, do follow your gut instinct! Listen to that little angel voice sitting on your shoulder when it tells you to do, or not do, something.
Shy III
Thanks for the information. I subscribe to the gray man way of thinking. Points well taken re: gov. officials
I SAY KEEP TO YOURSELF FOR SAFETY AND MAYBE TO KEEP YOURSELF FROM GETTING RIPPED OFF WHILE AWAY FROM YOUR HOME
What is the best ammo & cheapest (manufacturer & source) for a Springfield XD 9mm full size gun?
WITWCT– I’ve shot everything imaginable in my XD with no problems. For practice and competition, I shoot the cheapest I can find- and it’s usually been Wolf. (Can’t reload the Wolf, but as much as I shoot I’d be reloading 24/5 and no time to shoot.) I found a shipment of even cheaper CIA stuff at the dealer (check my blog) but am told it might be corrosive, but no big deal: just clean the gun right away, which I do anyway.
Oh- about “full size gun”… a 9mm is a 9mm, a .380 is a 9mm Short/Kurz and the two are not interchangeable.
For your carry piece, buy the absolute best you can afford. And know it’s going to be expensive- mine are $40 a box of 20. If you can’t afford to buy the expensive stuff (read “hollow point man stoppers”) for EDC, buy a box of Federal/ Winchester/ Remington/ CCI FullMetalJackets and use those- good, solid performers and quality products.
Shy III
Thanks Jim & will go to your blog. Loved the knife sharpening info ~
What I meant by “full size” was not the sub compact model and know both are the same … I tend to get a bit anal, sorry. This is my home defense, SHTF carry piece. I tried several guns and the XD felt best, Glock 2nd best.
I know it’s personal preference but which do you like – XD or a Glock? Also, where do you buy ammo?
Hmmm, what is my personal preference? Ummm… to have one with me. I don’t care if it’s a Glock or XD or Colt, if I need it, and have it, it’s going to work. Otherwise, my EDC is a Smith-Wesson 9mm with a .357 Ruger Police Security Six for backup and the XD is my comp gun. So, in reality, a gun is a gun and they’re so personal that to decide which is better is beyond me- I like them all.
I will say that I don’t subscribe to the theory that “my pistol is what I use to fight my way to my rifle”. The only real situation I can see myself, or almost anyone, getting into is almost spitting distance encounters, or very nearly so, and the need for a rifle will be minimal. When the need for a rifle appears, I’ll be outside legal jurisdictions and on my own and then everything goes.
Shy III
Get a Lee Classic Reloader, every thing you need [except the hammer] to reload available in 9mm. This was how I started reloading. It’s about the size of a paperback book. I have one [for each SHTF gun] in my #2 BOB. along with mold, primers, and powder. This way I can carry way more than I could loaded ammo. My BOB guns are Rossi’s a 971 revolver, and 92 carbine both in 38/357. [[note #1 BOB 72hr get home bag, always in car. #2 BOB got to scoot with only what I can carry, #3 BOB 32' travel trailer and 3/4 ton PU carb type [w/spare emp proofed condenser type distributer/coil on board]] Don’t know that I trust a running points and condenser system to shrug off emp but they are small, and easy to shield a few spares. My truck has a HEI type distributer, that will likely fry, old enough that an older point type distributer will fit, new enough to be dependable.
Wow! Not sure I want to live in some of these one second after times. That said, living in earthquake country, we are storing 30+ days of food & water, having the means to defend ourselves, extra propane & charcoal, a generator (with stored gas), first aid supplies, a 60 watt solar array, rechargeable batteries — well you get the idea. As for “I’m it it for the long haul” approach — I’ll let the Lord take care of that. Live each day as if it’s your last one on this earth.
Good thing Noah planned for more than 30 days …
LOL- 100 years, if memory serves me rightly…
Shy III
In your opinion, what is a good post-collapse vehicle? Being a 4×4 is an obvious choice, but what about gasoline v. diesel? And what about suseptablility to EMP? I think a pickup truck is also an obvious choice, but what specific year, model, etc. ? I look forward to all feedback. Thanks
Dan, It depends on where you live. If in the country post-EMP attack, an older (pre-1970) diesel 4×4 truck would be great. If in the city post-EMP, you’d either have it confiscated by the ‘authorities,’ or become a huge target for those willing to do anything for a working vehicle (and good luck on the clogged roads).
Diesel is better overall since it will last much longer than gas, and may be more available at stations since there are less vehicles on the road using that fuel. Again, it all depends on where you are.
For non-EMP scenarios, diesel should still hold an advantage in fuel availability (but may not). And for a non-EMP situation, I’d go with a newer vehicle, since they are generally more reliable, safer, get better mileage, and (if you have to travel far) are more comfortable.
I have had 4X4′s and 3/4 ton 2X4 PU trucks. The ground clearance on a 2X4 3/4 ton PU is more than most 4X4 CUV’s with a much simpler power train [read less to break] few places do you really need the extra traction, and the lack of it will keep you out of places you really don’t need to be anyhow. Diesel/biofuel or gas/alcohol is a debate I won’t go into for I can think of way more to do with extra ethanol, than with extra fryer grease. Still it’s close enough to be a tossup. Then again here [south AZ] snow is the whipped topping on our mountain tops not something I have to drive through.
Thanks Suburban Survivalist. I have a safe place in the country thats about 3 hrs away where the diesel 4×4 would be perfect. My current location in the city and getting out would be the big issue. I guess I could store the truck at the country place with other long-term items. Bugging out and traveling light on an off-road motorcycle could be the way to go.
Dan, the area I live in is heavy with cottagers who consider themselves to be local. The year rounders do not – they tolerate the cottagers in the summer and heave a sigh of relief when they leave mid-October. When the Y2K fuss was going on a decade ago, the locals were quite clear that those who could not prove by ID (driver’s license) that their legal address was our region would not be getting through the blockades. Your motorcycle going off road will only put you into the scope of a farmer who is protecting his land, and in our region, you are unlikely to make it. You may want to look at making your bolt hole your primary residence, despite any tax inconvenience.
Thanks to Lakelili and W for the advice concerning the use of a motorcycle. The thought of becoming a target for a sniping farmer is not one I relish. Actually, making my bolt hole the primary residence would be a better tax situation for me. Like anything, there are pluses and minuses to making the move so I’ve got to weigh this carefully. Again, thanks for your advice.
Dan; Lakelili is right about the off-road option. On the other hand, when I bought my bare bones retreat place “in the hills” some 20 years ago, I was careful to introduce myself to the “important” people in the community. I donated to their local charities and volunteered in community projects. I went to church there as well. Even though I am not “from there”, they treat me as if I were. They know that if the chips were down, I’d be one of them. The retreat option is not what I suggest, however, and sheltering in place is best as far as I see it. I do sympathize with you for being an urban survivalist since I was one for a long time. I would suggest that your goal should be to get out of the city. I did and when I look back at it, I realize my chances of survival would have been far less than now.
Here’s a question: assuming the S will hit the F, where in North America would y’all consider a good place to live? I’m from SE Texas: winter time’s great, but summertime’s flat-out miserable, and it lasts for like five months a year! I used to drive a truck OTR, though, and I’ve had a chance to bounce around the continent. Given a choice, I’d pick the Upper Midwest (Iowa, Michigan, maybe S. MN) or SW Ontario (like Leamington or Tilbury). What about y’all?
texas: Love Texas. Have been there many times. It depends on what S hits the F to some extent. I have been in practically every state and there are great places all over. I don’t particularly like the southland, mostly because of the heat, but in the Northwest here the weather is a bit more moderate. The issue here is humidity, but otherwise great. I think that city living, although wonderful under normal times, can limit your chances of survival. You should focus on city vs. suburban vs. rural benefits in a moderately temperate area. Most suburban-to-rural areas within a few hundred miles of the coast are my preference.
Hi Texas, There are some great areas in Ontario but I wouldn’t recommend the SW region for several reasons:
> you have an area that has been intensively farmed for a considerable period of time using a lot pecticides and fertilizers
> extremely flat… its our tornado alley
> you have a number of large urban centres (for us), including Toronto, Hamilton, London and Windsor, with Buffalo and Detroit across the border. All of those people will view that as open space to move into.
If you are interested in Ontario, I’d recommend areas that are more than 2-hours from the border. It is an area where farm land becomes more marginal but prices drop significantly. Also in the areas north of Thunder Bay you are moving out of the Shield and back into better farmland. Geologically the Canadian Shield is great for scenery, small rocky holdings with poor soil, good hunting, hard winters and hot summers, and lots of water sources, but it also breeds blackflies like nothing you have seen before… I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else, but then I know the land…
On the whole the nice thing about Ontario is that you have to work hard to find wildlife that will kill you – we have bears but most avoid people, same with wolves, our spiders are non-venemous and we only have one venemous snake – and they are endangered. On the other hand we have more geese than we need… a full larder coming up…
SW Ontario just has too many poeple… Play around with http://www.mls.ca – it is our national real estate listing service. In a country with a population about the size of the greater Chicago area, we can list all of the properties on one website…
I’ve always thought the Temiskaming area (New Liskeard, Haileybury, etc.) would be the best. Far from any major urban centres – 2 hours north of North Bay (pop. ~54000). Good farm land up there in the Lesser Clay Belt. Lots of forested areas for timber and hunting, Very cheap land prices too.
On the downside it can get bitter cold up there. -40 C, which I think is the same in F. Coming from texas that might be a bit too much.
If you’re really looking in Ontario you might want to consider Bruce or Hastings counties.
Texas:
I live in Iowa, so mine is less than an objective opinion, but I would stay put. Factoring into that decision is the fact that my family has a large farm, very near a river. Several hundred acres of our land is in the immediate proximity of the house, including a couple hundred acres of timber (some along the river). We also have storage for several thousand gallons of LP (for the grain drying system), hundreds of gallons of diesel, and a 10,000+ square foot machine shed, complete with nearly any tool you could need. My grandparents’ house is the next house up the road (1/8 of a mile), and even if they were gone that house would remain as part of the farm. If there were some sort of catastrophic event, I envision that the farm would become the place for everyone in my family to gather.
I think Iowa (or any of the other places you mention) would be a fine choice if you don’t mind the winters. It can get pretty cold and snowy, but you’d just have to prepare well for it. The rest of the year is quite pleasant, and the land and climate is obviously very conducive to agriculture and gardening. The agriculture and gardening part would be very key to a real long-term plan.
Thanks M.D., I’ll check it out.
Which storage containers are folks using for long term storage? I’ve looking for airtight containers that I can place #10 tins and vacuum sealed food in, but my initial research hasn’t turned up much. Curious to get everyones thoughts on this.
- LC
I think Emergency Essentials sells different ones, but my best finds were from local companies.Bulk food producers, pickle works,bulk spice companies.I found some great barrels from a company which made parts.Rubber parts were shipped in the barrels,and they were clean,with a rubber seal around the lids.Dirt cheap.Just ask around your area.Sometimes you can even get them free.Just tell them you want burn barrels or rain catchers,because that is the most common uses.
how do you dehydrate corn?
Hi Matterhorn, I read that it is done in the oven, on cookie sheets. The one article I read said to just wash it, cut it off the cob, spread it thin on the cookie sheets, and dry at 200 (?) until thoroughly dry, then cool for a few minutes and bottle in a dry jar with tight lid.They swore it would last for years, and tasted great.
The other recipe I have says to steam blanch it over water containing 1 teaspoon sodium bisulfite per cup of water.Cut the kernels from the cob, leaving about one quarter of the kernel on the cob. Dry in dehydrator at 150 degrees until crispy and crunchy. Then bottle.
I have a hard time finding that sodium bisulfite .But I was going to try the oven method. Hope it works out for you!
Some wine makers use this [Sodium Bisulfite] to halt fermentation just before bottling. My Ex was alergic to it so I learned to make sparkling wines insted of chemically halting fermentation I used natural CO2 to stop it. FWIW Wine and beer making suppliers should have it but look out for allergies. Also under the FWIW a common ration for French and Indian War, and Revolutionary War Militiamen was Parched Maise, which is basicly dryed corn. I am moving again but IIRC there is a recipe for parched corn in the Foxfire Books, when I get moved I’ll look it up. [[Finally closed on a house in Tucson]]
Azy,
Congrats on the house! (That was a good thing, right?)
I’m not even going to bother getting the bisulfite. I’m allegic to a lot of things, and that would probably be one. Some wines bother me, and that’s probably why.
I like to keep things simple, and easy. I have an antique cookbook that says that dried corn was used to make a chowder for people who were sick. Thought that was interesting. Back then, they probably couldn’t afford much chicken soup.
Comments on this entry are closed.